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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 13 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 13 | I have a 350 installed in my 37 p/u. Truck overheats after about 10-15 minutes of run time. 180 degrees climbing to over 200, regardless of outside temp. I have adjusted timing, replaced radiator cap. Fan is close to the radiator, but no shroud. I have checked all hoses, thermostat, etc. My question, add an electric pusher fan, shroud or replace the radiator? | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | depends on how 'close to the rad' the fan is, needs to be 1/2-3/4" and fairly well centered on the rad - but a 350 can easily run 210 with no problems .... also, if you have the stock 37 rad, it will use a 0-pressure cap, which isn't good enough for a SBC, which will run hotter [with more pressure] than the rad can stand
a shroud might help if the fan is more than an inch back, but you really need a pressure cap [at least 7#], which will require changing the fill neck on the rad, and an original rad might not take the necessary pressure long
Bill | | | | Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 56 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2013 Posts: 56 | You would be better off to install a fan shroud as that will help, also I read in one of the forums(I cannot remember where it was) there. Was a page that told a person how to measure air flow through a radiator and gave sizes you would need to keep your engine cool. Pat
1966 Chevy C 30 1 ton truck
| | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 13 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 13 | Thanks, I did change the cap and I installed an overflow tank (about the size of a tallboy beer can) and it fills up completely and boils out. Larger can??
Fan is close to the radiator, within an inch or so and centered. | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | does 'changed the cap' mean a pressure cap, with the proper neck? I don't think a stock 350 should over pressure a 7# cap, but they do usually use higher, like 14#, which I doubt a stock rad would stand ... but yes, I'd say a beer can size overflow is pretty small, something like a quart can or larger would be better
Bill | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 13 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 13 | Got the radiator and grill removed from the truck. The radiator is a Harrison 46F. Upon draining I noticed some build up of sediment and junk in the radiator, like little rocks. Clearly the radiator has been in the truck for some time.
Rebuild it or replace it? After searching the forum it seems a lot of recommendations for Griffin and Walker. I also noticed a few guys on the rod forums using PCH products.
Just trying to figure out the best way to go. I would hate to put in a "replacement" only to have the same issue.
I have seen no one rebuilding or recommending.
BTW, the 350 is stock. | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | I'd start with taking it to a good rad shop and have it flushed and checked, for both flow and pressure - then flush the block as well and see how it acts, could be it's just got too much build up of junk .... the old rads are capable of cooling a SBC if they're in good shape
Bill | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | Just a thought....You don't mention if you have a serpentine or conventional fan belt setup. Are you sure the water pump is the correct rotation for your belt setup ? | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 13 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 13 | Guys, thanks for the responses. I at least have a game plan. Much appreciated. | | |
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