The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Dual Master Conversion

My '59 came with no MC, just lines hanging loose at one end and a pedal hanging loose at the other. I've purchased the conversion bracket (made by CPP) and the appropriate master cylinder. The bracket instructions have one (poor) pic and assume you are removing an old MC. But I'm working from scratch.

I've read Cletis' tech tip but am still a bit confused. For example, he talks about a nut plate but my frame bracket seems different. And he also assumes you started with the old system in place.

YouTube has videos for '49-55 (1st) but I can't find anything on the web for '55 (2nd) to '59.

Does anyone know of a write up (with lots of pictures) that will help me get the bracket and MC installed, and pedal linkage in place?

I wonder if your original mounting bracket has been replaced with a farmer rig. Can you post a pic?

Here's a pic
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d...%20Pickup/MCframebracket_zps3a880982.jpg
I took the one long bolt out to match it for size and thread pitch.

From the picture it would seem that you have the same mount for the MC that the AD truck has with one difference. Your frame plate is threaded. Mine had a plate that was threaded and slid behind the bracket in your pic. Original MC has 2 cast mount holes at the bottom of the cylinder. One to the front and one to the back. They would match the holes in the frame bracket and the two bolts go through to the frame bracket. So it would appear that the mounting is the same as an AD truck. The lines? A different story. There are some pics in this Tech Tip:http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/master_cylinder/index.html
I hope this helps some.

Yes, my frame has square threaded nuts welded to the inside of that mounting plate.

Because I'm working blind and from scratch it's difficult to tell from the pics on the tech tip and the Brother's site how the pieces in the conversion kit go together and on the frame. So with your indulgence I'll check with you on things as I progress, taking my best guess at each step. And maybe, at the end, we'll have pics to guide the next newbie through the process.
(if you'd rather do this through PM let me know)

Does the bracket mount to the frame as in this view ("view 1") http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d188/pathwayrev/1959%20Chevy%20Pickup/bracketview1_zps51bdce43.jpg

Or like this ("view 2"):
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d188/pathwayrev/1959%20Chevy%20Pickup/bracketview2_zps2da0c366.jpg

(I'm guessing it's view 1)

Wrong, it's view 2.

Which leads to this, yes?
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d188/pathwayrev/1959%20Chevy%20Pickup/MConbracket_zps6f01e428.jpg

This puts the line ports in the inboard side. I thought pics I'd seen of other conversions had them outboard, but if one works as well as the other I don't care. Just wondering if I have the wrong MC.

Yes, that is mounted correctly.

It matters not where the ports come out. What matters is the bore size needs to be right for the wheel cylinders.

Are you running disc brakes? If so, I would strongly recommend running an 8 inch dual diaphragm booster. If not running discs, i would highly recommend running them.

As for CPP, i don't have anything nice to say about them. When you have a problem, they suddenly get very stingy. It is frustrating because they "guarantee" every part they sell for life. If you have a problem, however they try to make you buy another part.

I'm staying with drums all around, primarily for budget reasons. And this truck will see only light duty.
I ordered this conversion kit through one of the standard vendors, but don't remember which one. I don't know about their customer service, but their instructions are almost worthless. One bad picture and steps that assume you're doing a bolt-off, bolt-on. They don't identify their parts except to say how many of each are included. So, for example, where does the one nylon insert nut go?

I wish I didn't have to be so needy here, but this kit is NOT what I expected!

And I'm wondering if I have all the brake linkage I should. I only have a pedal with it's curved shaft that was laying on the floor of the cab when I bought the truck.

The brake pedal going through the floor is a 1/2 inch curved metal looking thing. That curved metal rod attaches to a much more substantial caet iron lever. The lever has about a 1 inch hole for a pivot which matches up to your bracket. The nylon nut should be used to attach the master cylinder plunger to the bracket/ pivot/ pedal.

Here is an ebay link of an original pedal with the master cylinder.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1959-C...ries&hash=item4626ff8543&vxp=mtr

If someone knows how to copy and link the pictures for future use, that would be great.

OK, let's check progress. I'm assembling things based on what looks correct but confirming it with you guys seems like a wise move.

Here's a look at the pedal assembly attached to the bracket/MC:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d...20Pickup/pedalinstalled2_zps08590793.jpg

In this picture, some questions: what holds the cylinder (with the zerk fitting) in place? Seems like it could work its way out one side or the other without a pin or clip of some sort. Also, the spacer isn't wide enough, so that the MC pushrod is at an angle relative to the MC. I've got the nylon nut on the other end of that bolt, just not tightened down.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d...Pickup/pedalinstallnotes_zpsa76bbaef.jpg

What goes in the hole on the pedal base that you can see facing the rear. I'm guessing a return spring??

And finally, why do I have all these parts left over?? And what am I supposed to do with that odd metal stamped piece?
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d188/pathwayrev/1959%20Chevy%20Pickup/parts_zps8e5b8d2f.jpg

The odd metal stamped piece is the answer to your first question. It fits into a slot on the pin and attaches with the short bolt to that hole just aft of the zerk.

The push rod angle discrepancy is discussed in my tech tip.

Yes on the return spring.

Don't know what the extra bolt are for.

OK, for the next poor newbie who's trying to figure this out like me, and who needs pics to understand, here's what I ended up with:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d...kup/installedfrominboard_zps5b3d0d94.jpg
and a view from above:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d...%20Pickup/Installfromtop_zpsfd5b4858.jpg

I added Grade 8 washers alongside the spacer to get the MC plunger in a straight line.
Next step, make up some new steel lines, get the appropriate hoses, and dry fit everything. Then remove the MC, bench bleed, install, and bleed lines. If I'm real lucky I'll have working brakes when I'm done.

Thanks for the help, everyone, and especially Cletis!! Again, this forum proves invaluable.

Don't forget the brake light switch on the cab with the spring arm that senses when the brake pedal has been depressed. You will probably not be able to adjust the pedal height correctly till thae cab is mounted.

That switch is another piece that was missing when I got the truck, so I have no idea where or how it mounts. But as you say, some things will better wait until the cab is set in place and a new wiring harness installed.

That looks great. Feels good, don't it?

Yes sir, it does indeed feel good.