The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1954 235 Engine Wrist Pin Situation

I was hoping to get some suggestion from other forum Stove Bolts.

I am restoring a 54 235 engine. The engine had 56 K on the clock prior to sitting in a barn since 1996 and freezing up. I attempted the pouring the good penetration fluids down to the pistons etc. I t never unfroze so I went ahead and started the tear down.

I now know why it never broke loose. The two pistons removed show one with the wrist pin area solid and frozen. Now I am in my dilemma as I need to have the crank shaft to move to get the other four pistons to remove. The engine is still frozen even at this stage of the game with four pistons still in the block.
I went ahead and remove the bottom rods and bagged and tagged each to show original location thinking this might give some edge to remove the rest. The pistons of course need the crank to move to get to the unit to allow the rest to clear. I have not pulled the engine from the unit as it has plenty of room and I would need the engine crank to move to get the bolts on the flywheel loosened. I did spray more penetration oil to let it soak more. I will upon getting the pistons out take the frozen ones to the machine shop and let them press them out and not damage.

My next possible steps:
A: To hopefully get an answer from a similar situation.
B: Consider lightly tapping the non-rod area of the crank to see if it will budge.
C: Remove one bolt from the crank to see how much thread I have to slightly lower the front first cylinder to get the inch needed to remove the piston and then work on the rest.
D: Pull the engine and Trans and hopefully get the leverage on the front vibration damper to put extreme pressure and attempt to break loose.

FYI: I was amazed on the block with the smoothness and non wear showing.

Hy 1954OldFarmTruck, welcome, have you tried loosening the pinch bolt at the piston pin end of the connecting rod? The best leverage is the flywheel teeth, try rocking the crank back and forth using the flywheel teeth after you loosen the pinch bolts, hope that helps.

On engines that are locked up in this manner, its often much easier to remove the crank first and then you will have greater access to try and work the pistons loose or tap them lightly with a thin board if they are stuck to the cylinders. If the pins are seized in the piston bores real bad, you may have to remove the pinch bolts entirely to allow the rods to rotate enough to allow removal of the pistons from the cylinders.

235 rods are not scarce or expensive. Use a sawzall or a cutting torch on the frozen-up rods to get the crank out of the block and buy a couple of replacement rods when you reassemble the engine. Chances are they're junk anyway.
Jerry

heat almost always works also.

Most likely the cylinders won't clean up enough with just honing and the block needs a trip to a machine shop for cleaning and boring. Save yourself a big headache, pull the engine, pull the crank and work on driving the pistons out with the block on a stand. My two cents.

The crank won't clear the remaining rods will it?

A rounded 4x4 and sledge hammer will drive the pistons down, at this point you are not going to hurt it anymore then it already is. Driving them up and out will be easier if the block is out of the truck. Cuts some 2x4 down to fit or a heavy steel rod and drive them out enough to clear the crank. A few good smacks with a heavy hammer may break them loose. Either way you go, new parts are going to be needed or at least some machine work.

Joe