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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,321 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,321 | I have 2 Carter (1946-1948) W-1 carburetors, manual choke, (without climate control) that I completely disassembled, soaked, verified all passages were open and rebuilt using new kits. When I install them on my rebuilt/re manufactured 216 I get the same problem from both of them  . The motor will not idle unless the choke is closed. I believe the problem is in the Idle Circuit portion. But both carburetors ? Both work beautifully in high speed mode. I have had them on/off about 3 times and opened the carbs back up to verify my work. Any suggestions on what I am facing?
Last edited by Harold46; 10/08/2014 10:33 PM.
Harold Is a restoration ever finished? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,765 Carburetion specialist | | Carburetion specialist Joined: Nov 2002 Posts: 2,765 | Check this link: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/CarterChevroletW1.htmAnd read the third paragraph under "Restoration of the Carter W-1". Jon. Good carburetion is fuelish hot airThe most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!The Carburetor Shop | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,202 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,202 | I had the same problem. Mine was in the idle circuit and wasn't the easiest thing to solve.
The fuel passes from float bowl down to the idle jet, from the idle jet, the fuel goes up to the top of the carb. There is a air bleed at the top where air is mixed with the fuel, I thought mine was clean since spray cleaner was coming out and I could blow air both ways.
At the air bleed, the fuel makes a turn and is now headed away from the float bowl. As the fuel makes it way across, there is a very small hole, maybe .020" or so drilled in a brass slug. Once through this hole, the fuel turns again and is headed back down to the idle adjustment screw.
To access this brass slug and small hole, you have to pull out a lead plug towards the top of the carb. Remember the fuel goes up, across, and back down, to form a upside down "U". The problem is in the cross drilled hole.
I was able to use a screw to pull the brass piece out, then clean it and the bored hole out. Once clean, mine ran perfect. Go easy and try to clean the hole first, before pulling the brass piece out. I had no other choice, I could't get it cleaned and the hole is so small, no wires would go through it. I reinstalled the brass piece.
I used a lead tire weight, and cut off a piece, then trimmed it up and replaced the plug I drilled out. It was just shaped like a wedge, and I drove it in.
Joe
Last edited by Joe H; 10/09/2014 3:23 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,202 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,202 | More on the idle circuit. Carter did not cast any ports in the carb body. So if they needed fuel to get from one place to the other, a bored hole was needed. The W-1 has a lot of passage ways, thats why there are so many copper plugs everywhere. The idle circuit has a lot of openings, you cannot just blow out the whole system with air, you can't get to all the holes with your fingers to direct the air where you need it to go. Do you have a copy of the service procedure? http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_W1_service.pdfLook at picture 8 and 9. In 8 the idle adjusting screw is being pulled out. You see the casting of the body right above the screw that is straight up and down? That is the down leg of the fuel path. At the top of that casting tube, you can see what looks like three dimples. The right side dimple is the port where air is mixed with fuel via the throttle bore, the idle jet is directly under this and is pointing straight up at that copper plug. The middle dimple is about were the small orifice is. The left dimple is the copper plug coming from the side, this is the one you need to remove. The bore is pretty small so use a small drill bit to get the copper out. I used a drywall screw to catch the orifice and pull it out. It was fairly long so what little damage the screw did, I was able to repair it and reuse it. A good spray cleaner with a straw, might blow out the hole, try it first. You might also try to block the down leg so all your air pressure is forced through the orifice hole. Joe | | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 212 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 212 | Check for Vacuum leaks with the Intake Manifold Port Gaskets and the fit and so on there.
Might not be a Carb problem. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,321 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,321 | It turned out not to be a carb problem See my new post: Carter W-1 & 216 motor issue. Thanks for your input maybe you can help with my other post. Harold
Harold Is a restoration ever finished? | | |
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