The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Centering Rear wheels in Fender on a 54

Since I plan to hotrod my 54, want to move the rear axle back to center in the fender. Found an old post that suggest moving back 1 to 1 1/2 inches. I figure, I'll just set it up sturdy, unbolt everything and move it back to center. Anyone done this recently and have some pointers? Also, how tough is it to grow a driveshaft. Am guessing this needs to be farmed out to my local machine shop. 2002 Post

My 54 has 2 rivets in the rear fender that hold the interior brace. I read that if you drop a plumb line from the middle of these rivets down the side and then center the axle on that line, it will be in the correct spot.

I don't know about lengthening a drive shaft. I'm sure it's possible, but it is easier to shorten one.

Usually they don't like to lengthen driveshafts, they'll rather you find another one that is longer and shorten it to your length.

Or you could always have one made up from scratch.

Or you could leave the wheels where the factory put them and devote your time and money to real problems.

Thanks Dave and Lorber, helpful comments appreciated. Cletis, not so much. Keeping my '48 original, '54 gets updated.

Allen, you can't just unbolt it and slide it back and tighten it up. The spring perch has a hole in it which corresponds with the bolt head that goes through the leaf springs. This bolt head keeps the axle from sliding on the springs and prevents you from going into a severe rear-steer should you hit a major pothole.
Carl

Yeah, Carl assumed would need a little Fab work. Just thinking about first step which is figuring out how far back to move it. Will likely also add a 4 -link to keep the springs from getting wonky behind the 350.

Someone else who knows for sure, chime in, but I am pretty sure my axle is centered on the leaf spring. So measure where center is, from leaf spring mount, to leaf spring mount. I am using a 55 1st series rear end. I had new springs made for this purpose. Its been years or I could be more definitive. I am happy to measure for you if nobody else responds.

I have moved a few back some, but the E' brake cables will need attention if moved back very much.

I may be wrong, I was once, but if you are going to put in a 4 link you can put the rear end assy anywhere you want. Just make the links shorter or longer.

Stock 47-53 (I don't know about 54) leaf spring "center" bolt is not located in the center of the springs. I believe it is off-center due to the funky torque tube axle-to-spring mount.
Carl

Carl, your right about the "center bolt" not being center. I THINK its off about 1 1/2" but my memory is fading and my notes are buried somewhere! I have read here that some folks just flip, or reverse, the leaf springs and that will center it up.

...this will probably confuse some folks but the bottom spring leafs are not stacked centered. If you reverse the entire stack of leaves then the bottom leaves are off set more to the rear. I turned only the top two springs leaving the others "stacked" the way they were which helps to prevent wrap-up.

In the end I had to move the drive side 5/8" to make the driver side wheel centered in the wheel well. These old trucks were farm trucks, loaded heavy, crossing terraces and the frames twisting and bending. Just get it where you like it and go from there. Good luck.

Carl you are right of course, but he wants to move to an open driveline. In doing this, I am pretty sure the way to do that best is to have a new set of springs made with the perch center bolt in the center. My first attempt at this I just made an adapter plate that moved it to center. But this build I wanted to do it right, so I had new springs made with the bolt in the center. I think this is what Allen wants to do as well?

'55.1 springs have the hole very near the center of the spring. It puts the axle in the same place as the earlier trucks.

Yes, I just measured. 27" from the center of the spring bushing to the center of the axle. Both ways. I made an adapter plate that was 4" by 2", with a center pin that was offset and a hole on the other side so it just sandwiched in between the axle and the spring so I could use my old springs. It would be strong enough to handle it, but the springs were iffy so just went with new springs with the center bolt in the center.

Forgot to mention that the driveshaft from a 62 Suburban fits right up to the stock 3 speed, but I had that one chopped for my 3 speed w/OD. In other words, to do this right, you need two specialists: 1) A spring manufacturer that does vintage springs and 2) A Driveshaft machine shop that can cut you a decent driveshaft. Very important to get the length of that driveshaft correct. You need at least 1.5 inches of slack in the shaft so when putting weight on the truck, it doesnt bottom out. Trust the professional you choose for that one. Hope this helps!!

Thanks Deve. Always helpful to get advice from someone that's done it, and yes I am planning to go with open driveshaft.

You can always get a new perch kit. The kit i used had holes in the center of the perch and a set properly offset to reuse the stock springs and get the axle centered.

Axle Location

That looks good, wolf, where did you get your kit?

Got them from Performance Online. I got this full kit that included it all.Give them a call and they might be willing to sell just the perch pair alone.

https://www.performanceonline.com/1947-55-chevy-gmc-3100-rear-end-conversion-kit/

I bought just the perches from Classicparts. They have two alignment holes. One is in the center, and one near the edge. There are 2 ways to install them (offset hole toward the front, or toward the rear), giving you 3 different possible axle placements:

Stock position (perch welded so offset hole is toward the rear).

Medium setback (use the center hole).

Maximum setback (perch welded so offset hole is toward the front).
Think twice, weld once.
Carl

A late model Dodge perch block works well to. I used them on my panel. Center hole and then a hole on each side of center which moves front/back 1 1/2 inch. They're out there.

Thanks Gentlemen. Appears I have some options.

They make small steel pads to relocate the rear 1 1/2 inches to the rear. Just unbolt the u bolts and put them between the springs and axel housing.