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| | | Forums66 Topics128,022 Posts1,055,382 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 | Hello,Everyone! I 'm pretty sure I found the cause to my excessive crankcase pressure dilemma! My engine didn't warm-up enough,due to a faulty thermostat! I switched the thermostat,and installed a PCV Valve,along with a vented oil cap. The original cap was not vented,and the valve cover has a hose that connects to a line,(atmospheric),that is shared with the air breather. I'm routing the PCV valve differently. I used a "T" fitting,into the (Vacuum) line ,from the breather,(draft),tube,to the intake manifold. I still need to find/replace the check valve in the atmospheric line,from the hydrovac,since I believe that was a contributing factor to the problem,as well. I replaced the oil in the air breather 3 years ago, and the oil in the breather still looks like new! I have about 800 miles on the truck,since changing the oil in the breather. Makes me think that the system is not working correctly.Is this (PCV routing), a good or bad idea?? You can't cause too much crankcase ventilation,can you?? Ideas/comments are MORE than WELCOME!! THANKS!!
Last edited by wetwilly5757; 10/04/2014 6:06 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 140 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 140 | I don't see how the two can be related. Excessive crankcase pressure will exist no matter what temperature the motor is running at. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 | Not according to this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuJqXF0Cr1M This is an air cooled Honda engine,but still internal-combustion. If an engine is cold,(water-cooled),the rings won't expand like they should,when the engine is warmed up,(operating temp of 160 degrees,or higher),since the cylinder walls are surrounded by water jackets. Makes sense to me. I haven't had a problem since I replaced the thermostat. So far,so good!
Last edited by wetwilly5757; 10/05/2014 2:15 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | I would take the truck out on the road and get it up to temp. I would drive it for 30 minutes, if nothing happens then maybe you can declare a victory. Good Luck Don | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 140 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 140 | I would think it had more to do with adding the PCV valve and changing the cap. All internal combustion engines run cold for several minutes and they don't have excessive crankcase pressure before warming up. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 | Right,but mt truck was running at 55 M.P.H,for about 15 minutes,(after driving around town,for another 1/2 hour),before it puked oil out the back of the pan. The radiator was cold,top to bottom,as well as the valve cover. By cold,I mean,about the same temperature as the surrounding air. This makes me believe that the pistons and rings didn't expand enough to prevent excessive crankcase pressure. Normally,a "cold" engine warms up rather quickly,and maintains a fairly constant temperature,with the help of a functioning thermostat..long before crankcase pressure is built to the point of losing an excessive amount of oil.
Last edited by wetwilly5757; 10/06/2014 4:01 AM.
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