The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop AD Seat Pedestal Drawers

I added four more pics to the bolt bucket concerning the modification of the seat pedestal on an AD for pull-out drawers. It was a feature I wanted and have never seen before. Its another one of those Deve-installed options.

The hardest part of this process is getting the holes cut perfectly the first time. Since I am using the cutout as the drawer faces so that it looks right, you just can't make any mistakes! Since I did, I had a little welding and minor re-work to do. It's an awkward place to get into to make the cuts. Use a very thin grinding wheel. I thought about using a small body saw but then how would you make it smaller to give you about an 1/8th inch gap all the way around? So, I just hauled off and did it.

The holes are 16" by 4". It's important to start your 16" after that metal seat pedestal trim so you want to make sure the seat is fully installed before you make the cut, or go measure one with the seat installed. Starting at 7-3/4" from the side edge of the floor works too. Also, I started the 4" height 1/2" off the floor seat pedestal lip. This way I was relatively sure I could get the floor mat in there! This arrangement also integrates well with the floor shifter I made.

Then I went to the local lumber yard and got 2 sets of 18" drawer slides (slow closers), and two tool box lock/key sets. The lock will serve as my Pull for the drawers so I don't have anything obstructing. I also got some rubber trim to dress up the top of the drawer cover. It should look very clean and seamless since the drawer outside is flush with the pedestal.

I made the drawer slide brackets out of 1x2 rectangular tubing with 2x2 end plates so I have a surface to either spot weld them in, or bolt them in. The overall length is 19-1/2 inches. I have pretty much decided on spot welding them in because that way there are no unnatural nuts/bolts protruding from the front.

The local heating and air conditioning company is making the drawers for me out of 24 gauge galvanized steel. The dimensions are 15" by 18-1/4. The slides remove 1/2" on each side of usable space. They will look just like tool box drawers with the top lip folded over. The drawers themselves are 3 inches deep. With a 4 inch opening and 3 inch deep drawers, I can put a fire extinguisher in them. I plan on using foam inserts to organize the drawers so that there is no rattling around down there.

I will put more pics up as I get further. Right now I am awaiting the drawers before proceeding. Starts here:

http://s160.photobucket.com/user/st...0946_zpsacc9fe66.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

Very clever!

Look interesting.

If someone had an SM420, would the drawers clear that floor shifter?

Deve, High jacking your post just a little. I like the drawer idea, very clever. But, I really like how your trailer hitch finished up. Very solid looking. Now the highjack. What is that heavy mounted plate on the top of your transmission?

Drew its the floor shifter I made for it. There is a thread in HiPo that explains it all (Floor Shifter Options). The hitch really did come out nice and I didn't have to compromise on it either. Spare tire carrier works great. It was hard to navigate all the nuances. LOTS going on there. (Hitch for AD pickups) in Paint and Body.

Tim, no. The hump goes out into the passenger side too far. I am not sure why that hump needs to be that wide, but if its really necessary, there are a few options. Make the passenger drawer smaller, or, make it pull out to about 12 inches instead of the 18. If the hump isn't needed as big as it is, I would modify the cover first.

I thought of selling kits for this, but everything is very available at your local hardware store, and there IS welding and metal work involved that your usual kit crowd probably couldn't do. Cutting your seat pedestal isn't for the feint of heart either! And then there is the tranny cover mods if needed.

So I got to thinking, which can be very dangerous for me because then it means more time.. you know that space in between the two drawers? What can we do with that space? Hmmmmm. Ideas anyone?

I decided to put a battery kill switch on the outside of that 6 inch area that isn't being used. I can route the negative cable into that spot cleanly. But there is also room for a 120 volt receptacle and a toggle switch. This could be hooked up to a power inverter placed in between the two drawer slide brackets in the center. Then I decided, NAW, I can plug the power inverter into the cig lighter and just place it in one of the drawers. So many options, so little time. If I were younger, I might fit a sub and amp in there. But I am happy with my MP3 player and sum budz! D-U-D-E!!

Well, depending on your audio preferences, you could incorporate a remote CD player, etc.

And thanks for the hitch/Trans info.

Also, you don't want a bunch of loud tools and misc junk bouncing around under your seat, so foam is in order. We did this in the USAF in all of our flightline toolboxes, so I learned how already. Basically, starts off for maximum depth by using a 1/4" black rubber mat on the bottom of the drawer, followed by 1 inch black foam pieces the dimension of the drawer until you get to the height you want. 1 inch or anything that gets you there in steps. One large piece is harder to cut in abstract ways depending on the shape of your stuff. I found it easier to use a combination of Xacto knives and an electric carving knife for the bigger stuff. After I have the entire drawer organized, I use 3M spray glue to stick everything together. Fun stuff and teaches you patience!

A propane torch to heat the end of a short fillet knife works good for cutting that stuff real neatly.

Remember those "Variacts"? Use that to heat a bit of piano wire and , instant foam cutting tool. Shape to a sharp "U" and slice away. If you can get a pair of thermal strippers, then remove the blade and use a paperclip. Done lots and lots of tool drawers with this. Safer and easier than an X-acto knife. And when it gets cruddy or burns out, replace with a new clip.

Interesting stuff. Yeah, you cant get enough foam solutions for your tool system. You should see my socket drawers. Thanks for the tips!

If you are ME its very hard to be patient when you have so many irons in the fire. I don't bug the guys when I am waiting for them to make my drawers, mainly because I know they are so busy. Once the drawers are done, much more to this story. I don't like being at the mercy of another shop. But, we all have to just take a chill pill and wait our turn. BUT I WANT IT NOW!!

Metal brakes, cutting equipment, etc is very expensive in money AND shop space. So, more later!

My HVAC shop expert came over today with the drawers. WOW! They are perfect. He didn't have them spot welded at the corners yet, but nice folded over tops, clean lines, no dents or unnecessary bulges anywhere. Perfect. I will be getting them back after he spotwelds them in the next few days. This is AWESOME.

So anyone following this, remember your local HVAC company. They use metal brakes and cutting, bending, etc tools all the time to make square venting, and lots of really elaborate things. Drawers are no issue to them at all. Pictures are forthcoming in the next several days.

Lumber yard:
a) slow close drawer slides
b) tool box drawer locks

Metal Reclamation or Welding Shop:
a) 1x2 rectangular 19.5 inch (x4) pieces for mounting the slides
b) 2x2 square flat 10 gauge or so ends for the mount above to spot weld them to the pedestal

HVAC company to make two 15" x 18.25" x 3 inch drawers

Once you have that stuff don't mess it up! Now THAT is the challenge! Many things to consider. Shifter clearance if on the floor, Metal valance that surrounds the pedestal on the sides can get in the way, the floor mats, coverings, need to be considered.

All in all, its a challenge and I really like a good challenge. I encourage anyone who wants to learn new things to task themselves a little. I only take credit when it comes out perfect.

Added more pix in the bolt bucket concerning this issue. Installed and completed the passenger side. The pics really tell the story. I spot welded the front face and the rail system so there is still some minor paint prep to do in those areas.

The slow close slides really ended up being a good idea because they hold the drawer closed. Of course when installing any drawer, you want the sliders to be installed so that the drawer closes in on its own.

The only problem, is that due to the slow close mechanism, the drawers stay closed so well, even though the slides are very smooth, that I cant open the drawer by pulling on the key when its in the lock. I REALLY didn't want a drawer pull on the front, but if I have to have one, I want one that looks really cool. I will take my time looking for something that looks like it belongs there. Its a minor issue.

I decided to paint the drawers after all the spot welding, etc, it needs a good coat of paint. Once the seat is installed with the metal side valances, etc, then painted a medium to dark gray, they will look like they were always there. I also put a nice strip of rubber molding on the top lip of the drawer and that makes it look better.

If you ever decide to do this, the absolute, #1, hardest thing about this project is cutting out the holes in the pedestal. If you used another drawer front, like maybe a tasteful piece of matching bed wood or something, the hole isn't that bad. But if you are keeping the hole cutout to use as the drawer front, WOW.
So, my ONLY criticism of how it came out is, if you REALLY look hard, the gap is a little off in places. I contend that once the valances are on and the door is installed, you wont be able to get a close enough look to see anything wrong.

That is pretty awesome. I may have to consider copying that mod. I know storage is an issue in the old trucks. Storage is an issue in my newer truck. Maybe I just cart around too much stuff.

In my mind I think I would only do the passenger side. I'd have to cut out the metal panel to use for a drawer front. Looks so clean that way. Seems to me fitting the drawer slides in the right position so that the drawer doesn't protrude out, or sink in beyond the rest of the pedestal. I guess there is some adjustment ability in the slides.

When I had a foam lined camera case the instructions said to put the foam in the freezer for a while and then cut it out. Worked for me.

I was very happy with the outcome. But I still have the cab off the frame and its not painted yet. It reinforces the seat pedestal in 4 places due to the slider mounts that werent there before, so its all stout and everything. I will write about this modification and make a pdf for it in the near future like everything else. Stay tuned.

Hey Deve, rather than attaching handles, how about cutting holes in the front which you can reach your fingers in. As far as tasteful, I would suggest making the holes the shape of the iconic clutch head screw. The Bow tie is over-used in my opinion.
Carl

Yep. That's what is so cool about thinking outside of the box. You can use an extra piece of matching bedwood, or like you said, or there is no end to the ideas it opens.

Another thing I am working on is a bed toolbox with the indented metal C-H-E-V-R-O-L-E-T logo on the back of it so its easily visible. Havent thought enough about it yet to decide if I need 1/2 of it to be a fridge for decent beer cooling.

I chose the handles for my taste. I did it because the seat pedestal is in and the seat frame is about an inch out. So the seat is outside of the pedestal enough, where you wont even see the modification until someone points it out. This sort of limits the pizazz of the fancy fronts to the drawers. Yet its a great idea! Shows a determination to be very very picky. People for the most part like attention to detail. I think you should go for it!

I think that I would rather figure out a way to come up with a mechanism which would facilitate a smooth rising of the seat bottom. Throw a latch, push a button, forward and upward comes the seat cushion all slow and cool-like.
Now see what you have started, Deve?
(Moderator, is there any way for me to block certain posters from being viewed like other sites have?)
Carl

Haha. Yep. I like it ALOT when others start thinking of ways to show me up.. gives us different options to customize our builds. Whatever you do, dont stop until its a reality!

Sorry...afraid we're all going to have to go through Deve's illness with him...and I have this overwhelming urge to go clean my garage right now...

Jim (Moderator)

I agree with Carl as I already have an amp underneath the passenger side and a 1 ton floor jack underneath my half of the bench seat.

Carl, what about a slight lift at the front of the seat bench, a 6" or so drawer-slide forward incorporated into the seat bottom, and then hinge to open fully? That would clear the seat back so that it would stay open at an angle without the need to hold it open.

Deve, the drawers are too small for my needs as I already have the space filled with the above items and full size tire iron, tools, spare parts.

Yep.. agree totally. I just have my jack, spare parts, fire extinguisher, first aid kit in my drawer system so far.

It would be nice if the seat bottom could move 4 inches forward, then hinged to sit straight up after that. Very possible. The person doing it would get lots of kudos for sure. That would consist of two very short drawer slides (probably cut short on purpose) for out, and a few hinges for up. The snap-in-place down is already done. Whatever you do, don't stop until you have it all figured out! My spaces are 16" by 18" by 4 inches (x2). I can live with it, but it certainly isn't optimal if something like above were possible. It's all about utility with these old trucks.

Don't get me wrong Deve. I like your set up. I just don't think that I can pull that off without hurting myself or others. I have a helper who fetches my throwed tools, and has instructions to throw himself in front of breakable items to deflect said throwed tools. He has not done that yet, but he is new.
Carl

Cosmo, I'm talking about fully operational robotic technology, man! I want servos, switches, hydraulic dampeners, 3-way adjustable mortising jigs (I made that up), that sound that the automatic sliding doors on Star Trek makes, maybe some smoke.
Carl

Carl, make sure that it looks 100% original and use only OEM parts, no aftermarket crap.

Yeah Carl. As long as you don't use 40 year old Soviet rockets, you have half a chance!

I already have OEM smoke. Gonna have to dig deep to find the rest.