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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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| | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 24 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 24 | has anybody here ever used E.R.F.END RUST FOREVER.I got 1 quart of this stuff and would like to hear of some input on it or if anybody has used it and had good results or bad | | | | | Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 28 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Oct 2002 Posts: 28 | No. never heard of it. But I bought some stuff called rustmort from "the bodymans friend" here in Bowling Green. I went in looking for zero-rust but they didn't carry it. Anyway, rustmort is nice product and I recommend it with the caution that I have not had it exposed to elements for any length of time yet.
JR | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 65 | HEY... TRY por15....I used it on my chassis and so far so good... check out www.por15.com
1959 Chevy Fleetside 3100 Series BBW
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 1 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 1 | Hey. Just joined the party tonight. Wanna stop some rust, eh? 30 years ago I bought my Dad's '63 GMC suburban, and he used to hose it out when it got dirty, so the floorboard rust was BAD! Went to a hardware store and the guy handed me a quart of Hammerite. Just chipped off the big loose stuff and painted right over the floor. It's been there 30 years and I was impressed then- I am more impressed today. It's a lot like POR15, but it happens to come in different colors and both gloss and hammered look finishes. For what it's worth. It happens to also be pretty cheap, like $12/quart. Also comes in spray cans if that's what you are looking for. Definitely seals up the metal.
Jim | | | | | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 385 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 385 | Step one should always be to remove as much of the rust as possible; scrape it off with a wire brush, media blast it, whatever.
RustMort (and other brands of phosphoric acid) is a great product, but not a final step. Once you've got the worst of the rot scraped off, you can cover the affected areas with RustMort and it will remove the oxides from the rust and leave you with a chemically neutral surface. Clean up the residue and prep for paint immediately.
ZeroRust is a marvel in a can... it's a single-stage paint that has phenomenal adhesion to bare metal. POR is a two-stage coating with similar adhesion properties that is more impact/scratch resistant, but it's a bit more expensive.
Hammerite, Rustoleum, and the like will fall off the steel if you haven't properly removed and treated the rust; they are great sealcoats but won't do any good if you don't prep the surface. Sure, they adhere to the rust, but what's holding the rust on?
I attacked my truck with a wire cup brush on an angle-grinder, bathed it in RustMort, and used Rustoleum bare metal primer and paint. On the underside of the fenders I used RustMort, then ZeroRust, then brush-on undercoating to protect against rocks. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 Member | | Member Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,897 | This site gives fairly decent details http://www.sealandprotect.com/
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Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
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