The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Anti squeak or gasket?

I was hoping someone could set me straight on an issue I have, I have bought two kits, one called a anti squeak kit and the other is called a inner fender gasket kit.
I have read in that monster post on assembling front fenders and I have found posts about the material used to make the gaskets but I could not fine detailed info on where exactly these two kits go, you will have to bare with me as it wasn't me who took this truck apart and this is my first truck. Thanks in advance.

Ken

Kit 1

Kit 2

** In kit 1 there are 2 each of the bigger pieces at the back, they were not included in the pic.

Thanks for the help with the post.

Your links draw a blank, plus we have no idea what
year or model truck you have.
Gasket/anti-squeak....same ting.
See if this helps, this is for the advance design truck:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/137706613/original

DG

One kit looks like a complete kit, while the other is the fender seals only. I don't know what kind of truck, but the additional parts look like radiator support mounts, or something like that.

Sorry about that, it is a 54 Chev 3600 long box.
The first kit is from LMC here on this page part number 15 and the other kit is from Classic Parts here and as you can see they are both different in which has caused me some confusion. Kit 1 looks like a more complete kit although there was no staples and kit 2 looks like just the seals as you say but with staples.
I understand the long tar paper in kit 1 goes between the fender and skirt and the long foam piece in kit one fits on the top front edge of the skirt, I am just not sure where the 4 square rubbers go or where the 2 round rubbers go and the small foam pieces as well.
I think both kits are for the same thing just that each have a few different pieces. I have read about having staple holes in the skirt for kit 2 but there where none in either of the skirts I have. Thanks for the replies and any help at all is really appreciated.

Ken

Somebody familiar with the model years will have to help you. Some kits do come with parts that fit some model years and not others, so you may not need all the pieces.

Your LMC link shows: part number 30.2319 for 1947-55st
I have no idea what the small square and round parts are?

The Classic Parts' 37-725 is for the same years

It looks like the Classic Parts kits come with the foam rubber channel to seal the Firewall Filler Panels

I have been driving a 50 AD for 3500 miles without any anti-squeak and have no squeaks, groans, rumbles of any kind. My opinion so far, is that this stuff is over-rated/unnecessary. Since you can't see it once installed, no one knows the difference. I am sure there was a reason Chevrolet used it.
Carl

I think those pieces were more 'gaskets' to keep road spray from between pieces and out of the engine compartment, the 'anti-sqeak' aspect was secondary

Bill

Okey dokey...I know it's really unusual for me to be
disagreeable, but I'm gonna be on the disagreement side of
this one guys. Once again I have to ask, why would GM waste
their time installing a gasket/anti-squeak material on
millions of vehicles for decades if it wasn't necessary?
The cab, hanging from it's shackles and front clip do move
around some as the frame twists.
This is my opinion now so take it as that, but I feel that
it's needed as a buffer between two metal parts.
I think Bill's correct, where it's second purpose is to act as
a seal. With out it, water would work it's way thru the bolt
holes at the inner skirt/toe board interface and outer/inner
fender seam and the paint will wear thru at points of contact
where rust will develop. Of course if you have a trailer
queen which mostly sits on a throne in an air conditioned,
climate controlled garage and never sees a rain drop or high
humidity, then this is a mute point and you can leave it out.
Hope you know I'm just pokin' fun at ya Carl...
The square pads are for the lower radiator support and the
round pads are for the front cab mount.
The staples probably will not match up to the original holes,
I threw the ones they sent me away and made my own.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/123537640
But it's simple enough to make a handful of them up using your
choice of Bailing wire/Mechanics Wire/Lock wire, which is
available at any hardware supplier or in most tool boxes of
the average handyman.
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-mechanics-wire-97773.html

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Good points on the extreme amount of flexing with so few anchoring points for the entire front clip. It is almost like the front clip is held in place by imagination. I suspect that I will eventually have issues with my 50. The truck was a barn find that was kind of thrown together in a rush after removal for a rebuilt engine so that I could drive it while I finished my 49. I would not normally cut those kind of corners, but this time I did and wanted to report the lack of issues after 3500 miles.
Trailer Queen? You will need to poke harder than that DG.
Carl

I had the same idea in mind for my '54, that is, gonna have a
driver while I finish my '50. That was four years ago, then
starting my life all over again at the new place got in the
way and I'm still driving my unfinished '50.

dg

Tearing down my truck, I think I have found more of that "gummy strip stuff" we used to call dum dum than anything. It is that playdough looking stuff that comes in strips and never dries hard. There is definitely anti-squeak tactics taken in the cab and front end but not so much in the bed and rear part of the truck. I Think they made an effort to quiet down the "living area". The work part of the truck ...not so much.

I am curious to know what that c-channel anti-squeak/seal material was actually made of. It was used on the firewall/fender filler panels, under the dash above the heater hole behind the inner cowl, and on the rear section of the inner fender. Seems to be a lot of engineers posting on this site. Any of you guys chemical engineers, or do you all drive choo-choo trains. (I'll bet you guys never get tired of that line. )
Carl

All we have available to us now days is 30# asphalt felt
paper, you know, roofing paper. That's exactly what the
vendors are selling also.
When I first got into my truck a decade ago, I'd ordered
one of the pre-cut kits and the piece I got had the white
lettering or chalk lines still on it indicating it was
just that, roofing paper. In my case it was not even 30#
material, it was 15# so....I cut my own from a roll of
30#. The original anti-squeak was the same type of material,
i.e., felt paper, but it was a heavier stock than even the
30# material. I believe it would have been more like 50#.
I've been looking for years for material heavier then 30#
but found none so far.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/137706613/large
DG

Denny, I'm wondering about the other stuff that may or may not be natural rubber that is u-shaped in cross section.
Carl

Ahhh, yes. It was probably styrene-butadiene rubber, I've read
where it was developed during the war and was the primary
type of foam that was produced after WWII. Now-a-days
polyurethane-based foams are used in the majority of the products.

I had pictures of all of it that I took off my '50 when I
pulled the front clip in '09, but they're being held captive
on my old hard drive. The cross section of the reproduction
material is not as thick and the compound seems to be more
dense than the original foam. Because of that it really
doesn't fill the gaps nor does it seal as well as the original
stuff.

Now you done it Carl, got me goin' on that foam bit....
I poured ridged poly for the '54 clock housings and GMC
parking light lenses that I was experimenting with last
winter. Since I've got all this spare time on my hands
and since I wasn't happy with the reproduction foam seals,
you got me thinking about making up a mold and trying some
of the urethane or silicone foams from Reynolds. Looks like
a good project for the basement if we get snow bound this winter.
http://www.reynoldsam.com/product-category/foam/

dg

Denny,

If your filler panel seals are big enough to close the gaps around those plates, I'd be pleased to test out the seals on one of my vehicles.

By the time I get around to it Tim you will probably be ready
for a new set of tires. Ain't gonna be any molds made till I
get the mills up and running and they ain't gonna be running
till I get the electric run to the other end of the building
and that ain't gonna be possible till I get the insulation
and sheeting on the inside wall and that probably ain't gonna
get done till I get the flue thru the roof so I can get some
heat out to the shop. Soooooo....you see, lots of wishful
thinkin' goin' on around here.

dg

In other words it won't be till some time next week!!

In other words, my allowance for this week is spent Rich. At
least that's what I thought. Did manage to find enough change
in my purse to order a 'Trial unit' of foam. That way I'll
have it if I get snowed in next month. Figured it's worth
thirty bucks for the experiment to see if I can make a
better, or should I say, more accurate, foam seal than the
vendors are selling.
I know from last winters projects that I can't make GMC
Beehive Parking Light Lenses as well as the vendors, or 1954
Truck Clock Housings as well as Marty. So lets see if I can
make foam seals as well as Steele or Wang.

Now....to address that heat issue in the barn!!

DG

How about putting all that heat in trash bags and save it till winter?
Peachy

OK Guys, we've had fun jiving but let's get back on topic please.

Thanks.

My 2 cents:

You know that "Peel & Seal" stuff they sell at Home Depot? I used it on my step side fenders & roll pan as welting when I put the bed back together. It is soft aluminum faced, self sticking and cuts easily.

Might be something you'd like to try. Check out post #105 here for some photos: http://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=13928&page=7

Hope that helps.

John

I like the idea that it would seal out water from getting
between the two metal parts, where the standard fender
welting really doesn't do a good job of sealing. Gets me old
brain goin' with the idea of using the standard fender
welting in combination with a sealer such as dumdum. Might
have a real hard time getting the two apart though, but, it's
not all thought out yet.
The 30# roofing paper anti-squeak is really to thin unless the
two metal parts are perfectly parallel to each other, and we
all know that a sheet metal inner skirt is never gonna be
parallel to anything else on these old trucks.

Interesting build pictures on the other site John. You been at
it pretty steady since 2008?

Hey, check your pm's please.

Denny G