Quick question, I'm getting ready to start my 54 after a 3 plus year restoration. Can anyone give me some guidance on what I should do first. The motor was fresh when I started the frame off process so I know it runs.
Slow and easy. Don't get in a hurry. Check all fluids and top them off. Take the valve cover off and crank the motor with the ignition off to see if your getting oil to the top. If not pour a bit of oil over the rockers/pushrods. Put the valve cover back on and go for it.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Was the motor rebuilt? was it broke-in? did it run and drive, or just fire up?
Use proper break-in oil if it was a fresh rebuild. Read any camshaft makers site for proper break-in instructions if you haven't already. Its not like it was years back.
If the engine has some miles on it, just be sure to prime the oil system or at least pull the valve cover and make sure you get oil flowing.
Be sure to have fresh gasoline in a clean system. Better go through the carb before starting if it has set around for awhile. The needle and seat are most likely stuck, seems all of mine stick when setting.
Run water only in the coolant system incase of a leak or mishap, its much easier to clean up then coolant if you need to pull something apart plus it cools better then coolant.
Have a garden hose, fire extinguisher, wet rag, cooling fan, and plenty of area around the truck handy before starting. Have the battery fully charged and good condition heavy duty battery cables.
Don't forget to check the oil, change it out if there is any question of type or weight. Break-in oil if a new engine, good quality standard oil if already run-in, and one quart of Zinc additive for good measure. I like to use 10w30 or 5w30, its thin enough to splash around inside the engine and really keep the camshaft coated.
Thank you Martin and Joe, you guys are awesome. Joe, the motor is in good standing, that is it was when I started all this and I also drain all the old fluids. Joe I used 50/50 coolant and I'm going to use 10-30 also. Martin, Joe, great idea to remove the valve cover to check/add oil. New fuel tank, new lines and pump, I'll add new gas. The carburetor has not been rebuilt but has been DRY and in a box for several years!! Humm suggestions on what I should do with the carburetor?
I would be tempted to get a kit for the carb. If it has been sitting it might be worth the time to replace the accelerator pump any way. Verify the float, make certain the needle and ball are free, just issues you don't need on a first start. Pumping oil to the rockers is good, I am still not sure you have the cam broken in so the break in additive would be recommended if the cam and lifters are still new to each other. If the cam and lifters are new be prepared to run it for about 20 minutes nonstop for a proper break in. Gives you time to check charging and look for leaks. The idea about water only in the cooling system is a good one, especially if you have pets. One less thing to worry about. Fresh gas, a couple of filters and away you go. Now we are doubling each other up.
I'd go with "Patrick's Classic Cars",(SEE "LINKS"),for your break-in oil.They recommend ZDD oil additive,for the solid lifters,as well as Valvoline 5W 50 racing oil,(Zinc Added),for the initial break-in. "New" oils do not contain zinc,like they did when these engines were new. Crucial for cam/lifter break-in. Just to be safe,I add ZDD at every oil change,and I have 100,000 miles on the clock. With no filter,(S.C.O.) engine,I change oil every 1,000 miles.For your carb.,If you have a Rochester B,the rebuild kits are readily available,and cost about $20.00. Good investment. Hope this helps.
