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#1047598 08/07/2014 2:57 AM
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 75
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 75
I own a 1951 3100 series and i have a question about the stainless steel window trim.
My truck does not have any, except for the center strip between the two front windows.
If i buy the moulding for the two front windows, does it just clip over the exisiting rubber molding or do i have to take the rubber molding off?
Also... i see that s/s molding is available for the door windows, do i take off the existing painted molding and just replace them with the s/s??? If so, how hard of a job is that?
Thank you for your help!!
Cadee.

Cadee #1047604 08/07/2014 3:24 AM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,596
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,596
Here is a shot of the surface that goes into the window rubber (groove). You need a different windshield gasket designed for this trim, the vendors including Steele Rubber all carry it.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/9128808273/in/set-72157631868452754
On the door trim you replace the painted with the stainless. It can be a bit of an exercise to replace. On the outside piece you need to bend/force it into place and it can bend in the wrong place if you are not careful. The inner one is easier I just leave all the screws loose as I go around starting them. I used originals so I am unsure how the reproductions fit?

Cadee #1047605 08/07/2014 3:24 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Posts: 10,270
The windshield trim requires a special rubber seal with grooves in it to accept the moldings. The SS door trim replaces the painted one. I don't know if the earlier trim pieces will fit the wing window doors on the 51.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Cadee #1047827 08/08/2014 3:38 AM
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 75
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 75
Ok thank you everyone for the quick replies.
Now i know what i need to do...buy the new weatherstrip with the groove in it and then...find the confidence to tackle the windsheild.
The door trim sounds both easy and hard, Brad's comment about having to "bend/force" it in etc, sounds like a recipe for something to go wrong.
Both the door and window trim are on my wish list, but there are other items i want to tend to first, these will also help build my confidence.
Again, thanks to all!

Cadee #1047848 08/08/2014 8:33 AM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,750
Cadee if you do go down the stainless route,try to get original ones.
The main trick is to find some without bends etc,once the trims are twisted etc they're difficult to fit and will fight you all the way.
By far the best way to remove them assuming you find some is to cut the old rubber away and gently ease the trims out.
I have to agree with Brad on the door trims,they can be tricky and you have to watch your paint too.

The trims other than the centre bar install into the new rubber and are fitted as a complete assembly,not after the windshields are installed.

Last edited by jockbolter50; 08/08/2014 8:37 AM.

1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in Scotland
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr.
I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings
"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.

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