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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,021 Posts1,055,373 Members48,420 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2014 Posts: 75 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2014 Posts: 75 | I own a 1951 3100 series and i have a question about the stainless steel window trim. My truck does not have any, except for the center strip between the two front windows. If i buy the moulding for the two front windows, does it just clip over the exisiting rubber molding or do i have to take the rubber molding off? Also... i see that s/s molding is available for the door windows, do i take off the existing painted molding and just replace them with the s/s??? If so, how hard of a job is that? Thank you for your help!! Cadee. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | Here is a shot of the surface that goes into the window rubber (groove). You need a different windshield gasket designed for this trim, the vendors including Steele Rubber all carry it. https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/9128808273/in/set-72157631868452754On the door trim you replace the painted with the stainless. It can be a bit of an exercise to replace. On the outside piece you need to bend/force it into place and it can bend in the wrong place if you are not careful. The inner one is easier I just leave all the screws loose as I go around starting them. I used originals so I am unsure how the reproductions fit? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | The windshield trim requires a special rubber seal with grooves in it to accept the moldings. The SS door trim replaces the painted one. I don't know if the earlier trim pieces will fit the wing window doors on the 51.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: May 2014 Posts: 75 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2014 Posts: 75 | Ok thank you everyone for the quick replies. Now i know what i need to do...buy the new weatherstrip with the groove in it and then...find the confidence to tackle the windsheild. The door trim sounds both easy and hard, Brad's comment about having to "bend/force" it in etc, sounds like a recipe for something to go wrong. Both the door and window trim are on my wish list, but there are other items i want to tend to first, these will also help build my confidence. Again, thanks to all! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | Cadee if you do go down the stainless route,try to get original ones. The main trick is to find some without bends etc,once the trims are twisted etc they're difficult to fit and will fight you all the way. By far the best way to remove them assuming you find some is to cut the old rubber away and gently ease the trims out. I have to agree with Brad on the door trims,they can be tricky and you have to watch your paint too.
The trims other than the centre bar install into the new rubber and are fitted as a complete assembly,not after the windshields are installed.
Last edited by jockbolter50; 08/08/2014 8:37 AM.
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
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