Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 201 | I have obtained a running 216 to put in my '46 grain truck. As I'm getting things ready, I have noticed that under the valve cover there is quite a bit of crud. I would imagine that there is plenty in the oil pan as well. The question: What is the best way to clean it out? I would think maybe some sort of chemical flush, but what to use? Also there are acorns in the water jacket of the head. How to get them out? I'm looking to do this with the least tear-down possible. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 872 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2008 Posts: 872 | Best way? Pressure wash, Tear down, then hot tank.
Most people would probably scrape out what they can, drop the oil pan and clean that then change the oil frequently (like every 20-50 miles). Use modern detergent oil and keep an eye on the valve train to make sure that the galleries are not blocked.
Anything you use to remove that crud is going to allow it to get into the moving parts and cause wear.
Last edited by pfarber; 08/06/2014 8:56 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,190 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,190 | There are two thoughts on this, one leave it alone, the other, clean it out.
For a truck not used much, leave it alone, change oil when its dirty, and go about your business.
If you plan on driving a lot, clean it out. Pull the pan, valve cover, and side cover and scrape out what you can. Then using a cleaner like mineral spirits or carb cleaner, flush out the remaining bits. Clean the covers and install new gaskets. Change oil when it gets dirty.
I have power washed engines just like this when the covers were off. I used a spray degreaser inside and out, very hot water, and 3500 psi, the crud comes off very easy. The water dries quickly when the block is hot, plus I dump plenty of oil over the moving parts.
Once clean, oil choice doesn't matter, what ever you like. A leave it as is engine, stick with a straight 30w oil. Modern detergent oils carry the crude with it so the filter can clean it, straight oils tend to let the crude settle out faster, thats why old oil pans always have a thick layer of deposits in them. Its said, detergent oil can start to clean up and carry deposits from old oil, and with out a filter, the dirt can damage bearings.
Joe | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | remove valve cover, side cover, and oil pan. Scrap, blow, and vacuum out everything you can. Button it all back up, add fresh oil with one quart of automatic transmission fluid. Use a heavier weight oil as the trans fluid is thinner. Trans fluid is a VERY high detergent oil and will clean things up in a hurry. Change oil often while you are cleaning especially if you don't run an oil filter. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,061 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,061 | You might try a Seafoam treatment. I did this and it appeared to clean out a lot of gunk. It is a matter of putting this stuff in both the gas tank and the oil. running it for a while and changing oil. My 235 had been sitting for quite some time and then changing the oil and filter. My oil is still clear and clean on the dipstick and some periodic idling time. If the engine is still out, power wash and then paint the outside.
1946 1-ton Panel 1952 1-ton Comml. W/Grain Body | | | | | Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 9 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2014 Posts: 9 | Looks like some good advice - following this thread.
58 Apache 32 Fleetside IL 6 235 WIP
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