The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1954 235 rear motor mounts

Hi all,

I've got a question that to many of you will seem simple, but it's got me scratching my head. I'm getting my harmonic balancer rebuilt and, while I had everything apart, I thought I'd replace motor mounts. Problem is I can't get the rears off. I can get the nut/bolt off that goes to the frame cross member and the upper bolt that goes into the side of the block, but I can't get anything into the small area for the lower bolt. Both mounts have collapsed a bit and a socket won't go in. Can't get enough room for an open end wrench.

I'll probably get flamed for this stupid question, but if I can get a solution it'll be worth it!

David,

You might want to post photos of the bolts you are referring to.

Presumably, you are referring to original drive-train motor mounts (standard transmission)?

There is only one bolt going up from below on each side - here are the mounts.

Thanks for the quick reply. I don't have any photos at the present, but I should add that this is a '54 235 in a '46 1/2 ton. The rear mounts have a single hole in the bottom that attaches to the frame rail and 2 holes in the side that attach to the block. What was done when the engine was swapped (I think) was that they used the older style of rear mount on the newer engine.

I can get two of the three bolts out with no problem, but that bottom side bolt is killing me, probably because the mounts have collapsed a bit and there's no way to get a socket on it. Maybe a BFH to try to drive it down a bit (?) then I can get a socket on it.

At work now, but back at it this evening to try to find a solution. Started getting ticked off at it last night and, from past experience, that's usually a good time to walk away and give it some thought.

Looks like this:

http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/sto...t_ID=1153&Search_Words=motor%20mount

David,
These mounts which are steel coated with rubber do deteriorate over time making removal difficult. The BFH is a solution I have used in parting many similar trucks. If you are going to replace the mounts which I recommend, then cut or get a side of the mount knocked out of the way or completely removed. Often times the bolts you describe have worked a bit and the threads get damaged. If you get the bolt removed from the crossmember you can the use a jack to raise the engine/trans carefully to help take the pressure off the mount/bolt.

Thanks, Brad. I did jack the engine up to take the pressure off, but it didn't help. Thinking about jacking the engine up again and taking an iron bar and a BFH and trying to drive the bottom plate (the one that attaches to the frame crossmember) down a bit - might let me get a socket in there. Got no torch, so that's not an option for me. I was getting [censored] at it last night and had to walk away. Like my Grandpa used to say "When you start getting [censored] off at an inanimate object, it's time to take a break."

Just had the same issue on my 52 1/2 ton. same mount as you have. I put the jack under the engine and lifted until I could see the mount come off the cross member. Then I was able to force a deep well socket on to the bolt. Then I was able to get the ratchet on and it came apart. The clutch side was not so easy. Limited room between the clutch and brake support. I did use a big screw driver to push the mount down like a lever. Hope you get it off.

David,

Just read your story in the gallery (wow, that is a great story) after that this should be easy. I got to thinking about the mounts I have removed and I remember once I used a small air grinder with a burr to remove one of the mount sides for access. Don't know if you have that but they work good in the limited clearance down there. Good luck, keep us posted.

Different truck but, yes, it was quite an experience. Darned lucky to be alive to tell the tale. Guess God really does smile on idiots!

As far as the mounts go - got no blue-flame wrench or air grinder. Going to try pry bars and a BFH tonight/tomorrow.

Let us all sing together in praise of the BFH. Got the 2 bolts out that I could get at with the engine jacked up. Took a steel bar and a BFH and beat the bottom plate (the one that rests on the frame crossmember) down a bit. Then I was able to get a socket on the pesky lower bolt - still darned tight quarters, but doable.