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#1046214 07/31/2014 11:33 PM
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I had to cut the wires to my taillights when replacing the back sill on my 54. when reconnecting them I let a wire touch some metal and it sparked and now blinkers don't work - as if no power is getting to them. Brake lights & tail lights work. I checked fuses, changed the blinker unit but nothing works. Could I have fried the signal switch? I'm out of ideas and need any ideas that are out there.
Thanks

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yes, possible you fried the switch - you should be able to check it's function with an ohmmeter or voltmeter ... and in the future, always disconnect the battery when doing any wiring work, or keep one hand in your pocket wink

Bill


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Oh crap, so I may need a whole new turn signal unit? Yeah, I'll check it with ohmmeter but I can't believe that little current would ruin that unit.

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the switch itself in a turn signal unit is replaceable and depending on just what you have, can probably be obtained from most vendors

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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So if I disconnect the flasher from the signal switch (after market 7 wire clamp-on) and clamp ohmmeter to the switch power terminal & ground, if I get a reading when engaging L or R signal lever I should get a reading if switch is good right? If I get nothing then the switch is bad. BTW, I have a mechanical 3 prong flasher in now, does it matter to replace it with an electronic flasher or are those just designed for LED lights?

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'Bolter
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Is this an add on blinker system? If so, maybe it is fed from an inline fuse.


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It is and the fuse is good. I replaced the flasher with no success. Brake lights, tail lights work, just not the signal switch. I guess I need another one. Very weird.

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I don't think the electronic flashers are dependable on those units .... yes, use an ohmmeter to check just what happens, you should be able to open the case up and check the switch directly, might have fried a contact in the switch or just heated a wire off it that could be fixed ... dead shorts, even if it's only for a second, can easily blow things .... if both brake lights work when the turn lever is in either off, L or R, something in the switch has to be gone if you have it wired right

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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Went back to a mechanical flasher but no difference. I get nothing from ohmmeter at the flasher or switch. Took the switch apart but couldn't see anything fried. Just ordered another switch.

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'Bolter
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I guess I would be looking to see if you have power to the switch after the fuse. Some of the fuse holder contacts fail inside. I repaired one on the road last year. In order for your brake lights to work, certain parts of the switch have to work.


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1951 1 Ton Completed


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I guess that's possible, I only checked the power after the fuse holder. If so, what is the fix?

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I guess that's possible, I only checked the power after the fuse holder. If so, what is the fix?

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'Bolter
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If you have power after the fuse then that isn't the problem. However, I would be checking for power right at the blinker.

The one I worked on had one of the contacts recede into the white plastic housing. I took some foil and pushed it in so the contact was made again.

Last edited by truckernix; 08/06/2014 3:01 AM.

1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!

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