Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,060 Posts1,055,835 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 17 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 17 | 1968 chevy C50 327 2bbl 4 sp man. Went to start truck after sitting for a while , no start, not even a click, nor do i have any power to anything else. Tried jump starting directly to battery cables , still nothing. Replaced voltage regulator, same results. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Haven't been on in a while been real busy. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | nothing to do with the voltage regulator, check the battery itself, might be internally shorted or something .... your battery connections or starter/solenoid internally might be badly oxidized, or it could be the ignition switch quit, if the battery and its cables are good you should at least have gauges and lights .... also try jumping directly to the main battery terminal on the starter and a good ground there as well, if the same result suspect the switch
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 | Sounds like bad battery,or bad ground. I had a 1-ton that would start/run,but driving down the road,it would backfire,and the lights would dim,at the same time. Battery to frame ground was good,cab/engine grounds to frame were corroded. If your battery to frame ground is loose/corroded,them nothing works. I cleaned 'em up,tightened them down,and the truck was back to normal. Hope this helps.
Last edited by wetwilly5757; 07/21/2014 6:48 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 17 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 17 | no this did not help, no power to anything jumping directly to the cables all cables are good no lights,no guages,no nothing any help appreicieated | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,774 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,774 | Do a voltage drop test, checking every connection from the battery to the engine and back. If you don't know how to do that, we can't help you at all. Find a good mechanic who knows how to use a voltmeter. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy bigwolf, If I'm remembering correctly, there should be a ten gauge wire either molded into the battery positive cable or mechanically attached to it, this wire may be a fusible link or not. That ten gauge wire goes to a junction connection mounted to the radiator support, from there wire/s go into the cab and provide power for everything in the cab, Do you have such a wire, is there any power at the junction connection post? Hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 17 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 17 | Thanks guys for all the info, I will check out each poss. next timeI am up to my father's house | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Adding to, and agree with, 3B: You need a schematic to buzz it out. Follow the hot from batt onward. The stock configuration is: From Bat: 4 or 6 ga to starter and a Black 18ga thru Fusible link to J block. From J block: black 18ga thru inline fuse to harness connector and a red 12ga to reg/gen and harness conn. Then follow hot per schematic to switch and etc.(I'll bet you find it before that.) Be sure you are getting a good connection from jumper cable into truck cable, both hot and gnd. Make sure the big ground wire is getting good contact at motor and clamping jumper cable to body may not find a path. Per above you have a fusible link and an inline fuse to inspect as well as any corrosion in the harness connectors.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | |
| |