The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Welder recommendation?

Ok, I know that this has been discussed more then once. I am looking at learning how to weld so that i can do my own body work (cab corners and a few minor fixes). I am not a welder or any experience at it. What type of welder do you recommend that will not break my budget? I understand that you get what you pay for.

Thoughts? Recommendations?

Chris

Miller MIG of some sort, probably a couple steps above their cheapest model is what I'd look at.

I have a dynasty 200DX TIG/stick that I like a lot.
MIG will be simpler to learn and suitable for your intended use.

I use an old Sears arc/stick 220v welder to do any really heavy welding. I use a 170 mig Hobart 110v from Tractor Supply for most things. I can use gas with it or flux core. I've welded a lot of sheet steel with it.

Sheet metal welding you say? Lincoln or Miller make good entry level machines.

I have a Lincoln SP-100 that I bought new about 25 years ago. It works as good today as the day I bought it and you can buy one now for about half of what they cost back then.

Be sure to get a GMAW (Mig) machine that is equipped for use with backing gas. I use .023 wire with 75/25 gas.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...WXczx8GeQZwZdXewenj57Zubj7YP_tEXs8_w_wcB

A SMAW (stick) machine will be of no use to you whatsoever for welding sheet metal.

Good luck and have fun.

John

I have a millermatic auto set 140 MIG. A little more pricey than comparable Lincoln or Hobart, but you have infinite adjustment for when you get better and want to fine tune your settings, but the biggest bonus for the beginner, is the auto set feature. You turn the switch to auto and dial to the metal thickness and it adjusts the heat and wire speed automatically. I have rarely needed to adjust different than what it set itself at. It runs GAS and is flux core capable though I have never used it. Great machine.

Setting the machine for the proper heat and wire speed is half of welding. I have about a dozen welders. The last one I bought was auto set, but I have been disappointed in the auto set and quit using. However, it is from when auto set was something new. I would imagine they have improved it by now. If it works now, I would recommend it for anyone who is learning to weld. It can be really frustrating because, especially on thin stuff, there is a really fine line between too much heat or too much wire and just the right setting.

I have a wire feeder on my Trailblazer 440 that I use .045 flux wire. It burns deep on heavy metal and works well out in a wind. I use it where most people would use a stick. However, on a small welder I think flux core is almost worthless. I would recommend nothing but .025 wire, Co2/Argon mix gas on sheet metal. And do it where you are out of the wind. If you weld with shielding gas, it needs to be still.

Thanks guys! I think that i will have to buy myself an early birthday present!

Affer much internal debate between Miller and Lincoln I bought the Lincoln HD180 Mig welder. My best price was at H Depot. Wanted something for fab work around the farm and body work. So far have only used it for fab projects up to 1/2 in steel and have been very pleased. Very good value for the cost. I have only used flux core wire so far since have not started body work so have not invested in the argon/co2 bottle. Interested in what other folks think but I would say practice with flux core then when you can run a good bead switch over to gas. I understand it is much easier with gas. Safety first don't scrimp on your helmet. Get one from a proper welding shop and I prefer the ones that will also let you grind. For me welding is therapy. It's almost like sitting around a camp fire. Granted I don't do it for a living but pretty cool to glue two pcs of heavy steel together and have them withstand heavy loads. Seems body work is going to be much more tedious. Good luck.

Almost forgot, are most of you guys using a 10 shield when Mig welding?

I have one of the auto-darken helmets so you can adjust the lens. I tend to have it right around 9 unless I'm stick welding. I mostly do TIG though and I seem to remember it's not quite as bright as MIG or stick.

Don't think settings are universal. I would start at the highest setting then back it down until you can see the puddle. You do not want to burn your eyes !! It happened to me only once at 18 yrs old in shop class....don't let it happen and don't let folks in the shop when welding. We learned stick welding with a 6" sq. pc of 1/4 in steel and just ran overlapping beads and clean. When we were done it was about 1 1/2" thick. and yes, definitely go with auto darkening, you don't want to be messing with the helmet.

#10 is good.

Auto darkening will help save your neck and make for smoother starts.

I just got a new Lincoln Viking auto helmet. I got it because 9 is way to dark for me. My new one goes to 6 and I have it on 8 and can see good enough. What I really like about the new one is it also accommodates the magnifying lenses that are available. That is really nice! My old one I had to turn on each time, this one just works. Great stuff!

Nobody uses oxy-acetylene anymore? Interesting.
Jon

Saw a demo at the Portland swap meet for Cobra welding. Its a gas system and very versatile. Made in the USA with a lifetime warranty. Cuts like a plasma cutter, welds aluminum and steel very nicely. I was very tempted to buy the unit just to learn to weld. Google Cobra and watch their videos. May still buy one next year.

It does take some skill to use oxy/acet. in body welding, but they use to do it this way.....
I kept buying those 40 dollar self darkening helmets, trouble was they don't have replaceable batteries in them, so after a few years they were done. This last helmet I bought from Northern Tool, uses conventional AAA batteries in it, so easy to pickup batteries when needed, also has the solar cell on it to.

John

With the price of acetylene?

GMAW is the bomb for sheet metal. Propane is much cheaper to cut/heat with.

O/A is there if I need it.. but usually faster/simpler to hit the power button and MiG.

Oxy-acetylene welding is kind of a lost art. I'm willing to bet there are some guys out there that don't even know you can oxy-acet. weld.

I had a teacher in high school that drilled us on it. He made us practice on 20 guage sheet metal. I was one of the few that was actuall good at it.

My uncle used to weld exhaust pipes on with oxy-acet. in his shop. No mig or stick welder to be found.

Anyway, to answer the original posters question. I'm partial to the old Lincoln AC 225 stick weld units. They've been tried and trued over the years.

I've used a Hobart 140 mig in the past, which is the same as the Lincoln 140. They worked amazingly well. For heavier steel welding, they lack a little. The 180 and above is what you would need for any king of frame/chassis welding.

At work they recently bought a Miller Maxstar 150. It's a portable stick welder that can use a 120 or 240 volt source. It does a pretty good job welding uni-strut to I beams. Which surprised me the first time I used it. It works best on a 20 amp circuit, and even better on a 240 ciruit. It's a pricey unit though over $1000. If you need a stick welder that you can carry over your shoulder, it's worth it.

I would not say say a lost art.. but businesses need fast, cheap and easy. Not works of art. A 30 second MiG weld on an exhaust pipe is going to last just as long as a 15 minute o/a weld when both are done right.

There are very, very few things MiG won't do to steel that o/a can.

I rate my o/a skill level at 'low' simply because I can MiG everything and get the same/better results. I can weld with gas.. but why?