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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 35
J
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I am about ready to replace my floorboards in my 65 C10. One thing leads to another, and now I realize I must replace the cab supports (outriggers) and the rocker panels.

I need some general tips, such as what to do first. After I get the seat out, I guess I have to cut out the floorboards. Then cut out the cab supports, and then the rocker panels. Then rebuild it all? then paint it? or paint it first? See...I could use some basic guidance. If I could be refered to any good sites and/or books that would be appreciated, too. I can see that there is plenty of good advice here.

I have no welding experience, but a couple friends with old trucks, and one has welding equipment.

Thanks,

Jerry Mann


REQUIRED READING: Truck, by John Jerome
(aka "The Book of Truck")
Zen Trucking
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
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While you are looking at books, have a look at "How to restore your Chevrolet pickup" by Tom Brownell. It has an example of what you are asking about. I don't think that you will get all your answers but there is some good information there.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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C
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C Offline
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Measure before you cut. I put my floors too far forward and made lots of problems for myself. Tack braces in before you cut to help the cab keep its shape. I know how to do it better next time. Or better, I'll buy one of those "rust-free" trucks.
http://www.chuckthetruck.homestead.com/page2.html

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ChucktheTruck:
Terrific stuff on your website, I'm glad I looked! It looks like you did a great job on your truck.

I'm just starting the re-do of my 57 Chev truck. I'm sure I have less experience with welding than you when you started, but I am encouraged by your website that I can do it. Was this your first experience doing the painting in garage, any tips?

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6
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I am in the process of redoing the rusty cab on my 63 chevy fleetside 1/2 ton pickup. The best advice I recieved was to replace the cab corners and rocker panels before cutting anything on the floor. It made a world of a difference. Hope this helps.


LET'S GO ISLANDERS!!!

1963 Chevy 1/2 ton fleetside w/'65 Pontiac 215 6cyl.(not the OHC engine!)
1950 Ford 2 door sedan-project
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U
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Chuck: great site. i love the seats but i must have missed where you talked about the upholstery. Where did you get it done or did you do it yourself? What is the material?


Can U believe it? My wife says: "I want an old pickup truck" so I HAD to buy it!!
'50 Chevy 3100 5 window.
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C
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Unbroke, I had the local upholstery shop re-cover the seats. The material is a vinyl that upholsterer suggested but I don't recall what it was, nor the color name. Nothing fancy.

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U
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thanx. must be the venerable "rolled and pleated naugahyde." hope my truck looks half as nice when it's done.


Can U believe it? My wife says: "I want an old pickup truck" so I HAD to buy it!!
'50 Chevy 3100 5 window.
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 35
J
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Chuck...

After viewing your site I am a little nervous about whether I can do this. I've done "bodywork" on my car before...a little grinding, bondo, even some fiberglass or straight sheetmetal patching with pop rivets. And spraying the whole car myself (pledging afterwards to never paint my own vehicle again, to save my brain cells and nerves). But cutting it all out, making the new stuff fit? and not even knowing yet how to weld? Don't get me wrong, I WANT to do it, just a bit nervous about it. It has to be done or I will be braking using my boots through the floorboards.

thanks for your reply, and everyone else who replied too. I will check out Brownell's book and just keep reading and looking at pictures until it comes clear.

Jerry Mann
65 stepside, 8' bed.


REQUIRED READING: Truck, by John Jerome
(aka "The Book of Truck")
Zen Trucking
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W
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Yes, chuckthetruck's site will do that to you. Heck, after looking at it a couple of times I felt 10 foot tall and bulletproof...went right out and bought a MIG welder and a bunch of practice metal.

Haven't felt so good since they put Early Times on sale. wink

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C
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Thanks all. Anybody can do this. It's just a truck, just a project, just a hobby. Dive in. This is the first one I've really enjoyed. I've finally gotten over the need to have it "perfect." Yup, there's flaws. Yup, I've screwed up and had to do it again. So what. And I really don't care about deadlines - when it's ready it's ready. I'm always learning and I enjoy the process. I like all the "ciphering". And when it's done I'll know "I" did it.

Donz, I've painted a number of vehicles in the driveway back before paint was deadly. The garage is harder because I had no real ventilation and, I don't why, when I slip the mask on my pulse and respiration double. I was always fighting stuff in the way - it was too small and too crowded. I did not wet down the garage and did only a cursory sweep so there is some dust in the paint. If I was to do it again, while it's apart I'd paint the areas I can't do when it's assembled, put it together and paint it as a whole. I'd wait til the neighbor kids (and the neighbor's new truck) are in school or away and open all the doors.

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Jerry,

I am in the same position as you. My '63 C-20 needs the same repair. I took it to a body shop where I had bought a $250 gift certificate at a charity auction. I wanted to see how much it would cost for them to do the work. It was of course, well beyond the $250 and about three times the amount I had been given in Washington state. (This is Alaska!) They did tell me though, that I could do the repairs with the cab in place which would keep it from twisting when it is all cut-up, and makes it easier to fit when bolted back on. Has anyone else done that, and if so, are there special problems I should be alert for? (I should mention this body shop has a reputation for quality work on classic cars, I know the owner, and I think it might be possible to use my gift certificate for professional pointers as opposed to having them do the work. I just don't want to abuse my relationship with them by asking for too much free help.)

Keith

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5
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Wow! It looks like I've come to the right place. I too am about to embark on replacing a rocker panel and my floor boards. I've already got the rocker and a new floor pan kit(front & rear incl. new floor supports) What I'd like to know is can I remove the rocker panel and the floor boards at the same time? If so, where do I brace the cab? Do any of you have a pic that will show me what you did? I've removed 90% of the rocker panel except where the panel and floor pans meet at the front floor support. This is where I hesitant eek I don't want to mess up the integrity of the cab. Can any of folks give me some good solid advice...and in the mean time ease my mind...??

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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52 Chevy,
are you talking about an AD truck? I have never heard of a rear floorpan kit.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2
5
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I guess "front & rear" would be incorrect. The entire kit comes in two parts. One part is installed from the front of the seat forward (including toe board), and the second is installed from front of the seat to the rear of the cab...

Joined: Mar 2002
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Could you tell me who sells the rear portion ? Most of the suppliers I have seen have panels for the footwells and toeboard.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!

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