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Joined: Mar 2012
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I just finished the construction of my 54's new bed- removed the old wrecker assembly and I'm pretty happy with the results. But before I finish/oil/fasten the wood side slats- do I need to have a space under the bottom rail and the bed itself? I like it laying on the bed but I can see that this might lead to paint wear on the top lip of the bed- please see the photos and let me know what you think-

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums...C-46F9-A4C1-24F37DB18021_zpsoepca2fp.jpg

The bed frame itself is made of 18, 16, and 14 gauge materials- the wood is IPE. The boards that are finished (all bed boards and one rail) are done with teak oil. I have yet to tweak the side posts and rails so I'll finish them after I make final adjustments



1954 Chevy 3/4-Ton Chevy
"Mo"
1948-53-54 "Mixed Bag" Chevy Stakebed
"Basket Case"
1952 Chevy 3/4-Ton
"as yet un-named"
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1954 Chevy 3/4-Ton Chevy
"Mo"
1948-53-54 "Mixed Bag" Chevy Stakebed
"Basket Case"
1952 Chevy 3/4-Ton
"as yet un-named"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Lots of pictures
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 156
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The stake posts are made to rest on the lip of the bed as well as in the lip of the tube steel pockets so they could be self supporting of the bed without the rails resting on the bed- here the prototype in pine- used to reference when I made the IPE posts

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums...0-4405-BD37-2D6CA1F63ABB_zps8j6fb9rl.jpg



1954 Chevy 3/4-Ton Chevy
"Mo"
1948-53-54 "Mixed Bag" Chevy Stakebed
"Basket Case"
1952 Chevy 3/4-Ton
"as yet un-named"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Lots of pictures
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I have two stake pockets in front and added a fourth board to bring the bed rail to just under the rear window- I'll round out/ notch the ends of these to match the corner windows. I still have to sort the details where the sides meet the front- I might make some 12 gauge 90 degree clasps for the connection between the two...

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums...8-4D19-8885-6CD49A91BF76_zpsuthrbutg.jpg



1954 Chevy 3/4-Ton Chevy
"Mo"
1948-53-54 "Mixed Bag" Chevy Stakebed
"Basket Case"
1952 Chevy 3/4-Ton
"as yet un-named"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Lots of pictures
Joined: Jan 2010
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That looks great


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Thank you very much!


1954 Chevy 3/4-Ton Chevy
"Mo"
1948-53-54 "Mixed Bag" Chevy Stakebed
"Basket Case"
1952 Chevy 3/4-Ton
"as yet un-named"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Lots of pictures
Joined: Sep 2006
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That is impressive. The choice of IPE, especially for a "work"
truck was a real smart idea. You know you won't be disappointed
with how that holds up. Personally I like the side rail touching the bed, but perhaps a 1/4 inch rise would protect the paint and allow any dirt and debris to be easily swept or watered away.
But, it's your truck. Really, nice work.


Drew
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Yep, that looks fantastic. thumbs_up


In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive.
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Thank you very much- I'm very happy with the IPE and hopefully it's just an occasional re-oiling to keep it looking good. Not much time to work on the truck as of late- I'm hopping to get it on the road before the snow flies.

My hat's off to you John- LOVE the c-10 build thread! thank you for posting that link.


1954 Chevy 3/4-Ton Chevy
"Mo"
1948-53-54 "Mixed Bag" Chevy Stakebed
"Basket Case"
1952 Chevy 3/4-Ton
"as yet un-named"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Lots of pictures
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 37
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My first instinct was to say you need to give that fence a gap to allow dirt to blow out and wet to dry. Looked at your pics. and I have to stick with my gut; give it a 1/4 to 3/8 inch gap. Over time, I think you will be saving yourself work, trapped moisture and dirt will take it toll.

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My bed rails rest on the metal. The paint shows a little rubbing but I prefer it tight.

I would think by leaving the gap, debris would get wedged underneath. Just like the junk between deck boards. Plus the rail helps distribute the weight of the rack.

I wonder if you could use a rubber cushion? Perhaps cut strips out of a horse stall mat?


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1924 Ford Model T Fordor
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Great looking truck. The question comes down to seal and support, like a very long gasket or to support and float. The stake supports on your truck look strong and deep. The posts will be supported very well. The slats, just tie the posts together structure wise. You get to choose. No wrong way with the structure you have. If the post supports were short, then the rail and the slat would work to add support. You have nice deep supports so do what looks best to you.


Steve H

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