The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Re: What did you get done on your 'Bolt today?

Finished all painting on the '53 restoration project. The rear fenders were the last parts needing painting. Now on to final assembly, adjustment of systems, and fluids.

Still working on the rear fenders. Got them primed and just got the first coat of black on them tonight.

Finished all bodywork now that rear fenders, running boards, and splash aprons are installed. The list is down to 19 minor items before she hits the road for the first time (after restoration).

sanded and laid down coat #2 of spar on the bottom of the bed wood. One more coat, then I'll start on the tops. Doing a satin finish, instead of a glass, and it is gonna look killer!

Started putting brake lines back in my 3/4T frame. Feels good to start putting things back together instead of taking them off. Put new bushing in my spindles and now off to find someone to ream them to fit the kingpins.

Ordered more parts

I got the doors hung on my '41.

Sanded, primed, and painted some small parts.

I hand polished the '56. It looks good but it was a good workout. I bet it would have worn an old man out.

Wax on Wax off!

more spar on the bed wood, starting to look reeeeal good! Going with the satin finish, and boy... it looks smooth!

Got the front clip pulled off. Engine and trans next then unbolt the Andereggen IFS and then start the Danforth front crossmember. A big job but all is going well so far.



Weeds

I checked your pics Weed; they show a lot of evidence of engineering skill. You do great work. Thanks for the pics and keep em' coming.

Over the weekend I accomplished:
1. Corrected seeping fluid leak from rear axle.
2. Completed installation and wiring of tail lights.
3. Completed initial greasing of all chassis grease points.
4. Installed outside mirrors.
5. Finalized A/C wiring under hood (bundled, clamped in place).
6. Adjusted rear brakes and parking brake.
7. Installed exhaust system.
8. Installed exhaust heat shield under bed wood.
9. Adjusted front wheel bearings.
10. Tightened/adjusted all steering linkage joints.
11. Added engine oil, primed pump, final installation and initial timing of distributor. Installed plug wires.

I have 11 items on the list before the restoration is 100% complete. Easy items such as add fuel, add coolant, set toe-in, install new wheels and tires, bleed brakes, ....

Your almost there David.

Installed new rubber window wipers on the side doors. Once I ciphered it out they just slid in from a special indent about midway on the mounting channel.
They mount so low in the door I hardly think they'll keep much rain out but they did stop the windows from ratttleing.
I also ordered the fuzzy strips that go on the inside but I'm still ciphering how to secure them. The worn out originals are stapled to the interior trim piece so I'll need to come up with a new way. Perhaps small screws or similar.

Otherwise the ole 49 carried my refuse to the dump, took me on a nice long leisurely cruise on Sat and after a bath it carried me to Church on Sunday.
Dave

Dave: Make your own staples for the fuzzies and use weatherstrip adhesive as well. I make staples from SS safety wire.

Got the valve cover stenciled and painted, got the motor together (except for distributor, which I am rebuilding).
http://lymanhall.smugmug.com/Trucks/1953-Chevrolet-3100-Truck/i-xk93XCF/0/L/DSC_1311-L.jpg

Got most of the front sheet metal on, except for bumper and grill (at body shop for paint).
http://lymanhall.smugmug.com/Trucks/1953-Chevrolet-3100-Truck/i-mkCkrSv/0/L/DSC_1309-L.jpg

Buddy came over to do a final inspection of the brake rebuild, bleed, and parking brake adjustments. All done!!!!!

I know exactly the parts you mean Dave,can you tell me where you got yours?
The door trim kit I ordered didn't have these.

Incidentally they're not designed to stop water,merely reduce wind noise/rattles.
Water will naturally pass through the door,exiting from the large drain holes at the bottom.

Continued to fine tune my front MII alignment,I've got the camber/caster set dead-on now,so off to the alignment shop to get the toe-in set if I can stop driving it long enough!

I got them from Classic Truck Parts
They were alittle long so I cut them down to fit. Long is better than short

The new fuzzy's will work but they don't exactly match the originals, the originals have a slight bend to follow the door contour at one end whereas the new ones don't.
The doors are my current subproject. Hinges, latches and some body work.

Oh, if you order from them, mention The Stovebolt it'll get you 5% off each part.
Dave

http://www.classicparts.com/1951-54-Outer-Rubber-Window-Seals-pr/productinfo/03-712/#.U6LQ-i9RH8A

Regarding "the new fuzzys": is there a vendor that sells those beaded strips with the correct bend in them? I think Jim Carter used to, but I cannot find them on his web site. The search does not even display in my browser (no big deal, the search used to crash most of the time).

The door kit I purchased from Truck Shop in orange came with the correct bend on the fuzzy strip.


...if this is what your referring to as fuzzies...

got my OE wheels sandblasted and primed. The outsides look pretty darn good! The inside on two of them are fairly pitted in a few areas... Nows the time to decide to use them or not...

Bleed brake new brake system. Took me about two hours due to several leaks at the rear axle. Every original brass connection/block leaked and required excessive torque on the new line fitting to barely stop the leak. Looks like I need to source new blocks (i.e. T fitting and at each wheel cylinder). Part of the fun of sorting out restorations I suppose. List is getting smaller none-the-less.

Installed new spark plugs, NGK 3332s getting ready to install the TBI and 302 intake and dual Fentons maybe this weekend.

Got everything together to install the power steering tomorrow.

Yesterday: brakes fully bleed and more leaks corrected. New gloss black powder coated wheels and 215/85-16 tires installed...what a difference! Coolant added and promptly leaked out at throttle linkage pin. Doh! I did not realize at the Tim the hole in block went into water jacket. Copper sealing washer and thread sealant applied...fixed. Noticed cotter pin on throttle linkage not clinched. So I guess a leak was a good thing as otherwise initial drive would have lasted long due to lost throttle action.

Today: add fuel and start engine. I am sure the original shutoff valve will leak. Correct the leak and take truck out on maiden voyage.

Update: engine is running. Had a bit of ignition trouble that turned out to be points not making contact upon closing...took awhile to figure that one out. Once corrected, engine fire right up and proceeded to puke out a goo dfpamount of coolant. Engine seems to be running too hot. Not sure where to start troubleshooting this one. Charged a/c and cools great. When aux fan is running, load on alternator causes belt squeal if idling too low. A few more tweaks and going to try driving around the block a time or two tomorrow morning. Coolant staying put now, but engine temp climbs if left idling too long. About 210 degrees

Edit: Pulled radiator and order replacement. Brakes still spongy. Drove truck a few miles...will only make it up steep grades in first gear (3.55 gears, 215/85-16 tires combine for some tall gearing on the 216, 90HP engine).

Nothing major for a change,I spent some time tinkering with the Edelbrock 1406 carb.
I also found out why it was running so rich,the choke was badly out of adjustment,the exhaust was black and sooty and the plugs weren't much better.

Just as well I got it fixed as gas is set to top the equivalent of $10.50 a gallon here later this week!

Finaly installed the nos starter and solenoid I've had on the shelf for months. The solenoid that was in the truck was missing one of the cap screws for the cover, which let in dust, oil and moisture onto the contacts. No wonder it was acting up! Needless to say the new starter works outstanding. Also hooked up a remote starter switch, attached to the inner fender, so I can turn the motor over, from under the hood, easily when needed.

pulled the power steering unit and pump,took out the transmission mount bolts at the crossmember, working on dropping the drive shaft. waiting for a tailshaft plug from summit so I don't lose all the fluid from the transmission.Almost ready to hook up the cherry picker and pull the 283. Then start on the Scott Danforth crossmember. Rolling around on the floor at my age no fun but it's coming along.



Weeds

A full brake system health check for mine today,I had a front brake flex line snap at the banjo fitting.

The scary part was there was little or no brakes after,despite the fact it's a dual circuit M/C.

After 5 weeks of drama and various molehills being made into mountains , I finally got the engine back into the truck today and took it for a test flight .

All's well again

Got a little sheet metal on the front.

http://lymanhall.smugmug.com/Trucks/1953-Chevrolet-3100-Truck/i-M2KG5dj/0/M/DSC_1370-M.jpg

Not on my truck... but helped a fellow bolter (54CarryAll) with some stuff on his trick... the hood latch assembly, headlights, and a few other things. Very productive day!

got the drivers' floor tacked into place

can't use the link: requires aol login

Got the new bed wood in.

http://lymanhall.smugmug.com/Trucks/1953-Chevrolet-3100-Truck/i-fnLKTxF/0/M/DSC_1383-M.jpg

Inspection and registration complete. Have plates on the truck and now driving legally. Done and done.

I got my remanufactured 235 for my 49 pu TODAY! It took an embarrising several years to save the CASH for it. Worse, I bought it online and it took 10 months to get delivered. But it seems to be high quality. Now I am doing oil pan, pump. It is only 117F on the back porch. Hurray! (jumping up and down here)

Bought the cheapest thing I could think of for seat covers. Got the bottom done tonight...a little lumpy but I just went over the old cover with a piece of foam between.

[IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/PushnFords/1954%20GMC/1954GMC017_zps9955c986.jpg[/IMG]