The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop To remove 65 C10 cab for cab support work or not?

I am going to be starting some cab rust repair this coming weekend and I've been pondering removing the cab. Ideally the easiest access would be to rest the cab on it's back to deal with replacing the outer sections of cab supports; however someone on another forum said it's not a good idea because the cab wasn't made to rest on it's back and you can cause it to shift. The cab is actually pretty solid. The only rust it has is the driver rocker and cab corner and the very outer few inches of the cab supports. What would be the best thing to do to deal with this? Thanks

laying the cab on its back [gently and well supported] works fine, lots of us have done it

Bill

Thanks, that's what I was thinking. Any tips for keeping it well supported?

For lifting I was thinking of using the seat mount holes with a chain and the lift boom attachment on my tractor which is much like a engine hoist/cherry picker. Not sure how I can safely get it on it's back--maybe get some help unless I can figure a way to lift the cab from the front some how with the lift boom?

If the truck is currently a driver I'd suggest leaving the cab on the truck unless you are planning a very extensive rebuild / restoration.

Nothing kills a project quicker than taking the truck entirely apart...

Just something to keep in mind, FWIW.

I hear you Hot Rod John. It is a driver and my goal is to keep it as a clean original driver. The thing is there's pros and cons either way. The hardest thing will be doing overhead grinding and welding on those floor supports if I leave it on. If I take it off then I have to deal with another set of possible issues. I might try working on those floor braces with the cab on first and see how that goes. I will have to get me a proper welding jacket.

I understand where you are coming from Matt. I've eaten my share of grime and grinder dust, and had weld splatter burn through my coveralls.

FWIW here is an idea for you. Many years ago I built 6 heavy duty boxes out of 2x6's and plywood to use as under the wheel lifts so I could work safely under a vehicle.

Here's what they look like:
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/Shop%20Photos/2%20Post%20Lift/Nolift.jpg
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...2%20Post%20Lift/DSCF1639_zpsee6b148e.jpg
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...2%20Post%20Lift/DSCF1641_zpsd612d632.jpg
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...2%20Post%20Lift/DSCF1642_zpsc28447ab.jpg

Lifting is accomplished using a large floor jack that has about a 30 inch lift.

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/...2%20Post%20Lift/DSCF1645_zpsfd5d6eec.jpg

The 2 x 6 materials were left over scraps from a deck we built, and the plywood was left overs from a loft we built in our barn. Everything is screwed together with deck screws.

I've since bought a 2 post lift which makes under the vehicle repairs so much easier. But those under wheel boxes still come in handy all the time.

Sorry if this is a sidestep to your thread, thought it might be helpful

Also.. when repairing the cab support, only replace the corroded portion. On my '65 only the support portion near the rocker was corroded. Instead of replacing the entire support just cut out the corroded section... hope that makes sense.

John

I would not lift using the seat attachment. If you mean using bolts into the threaded holes. They very possibly will not be designed to hold the weight. Later on in the design world, seats were made to stay put during an accident and the seat belts were attached to them. But that was not developed in your era I believe. Lift from under at the "strong points" or strap it. It is possible to strap thru the doors/roof but.... I don't do that. Most repair shops will fix it on the truck by crawling around and getting burnt. Any cotton shirt will work.(for a while). Stop, Drop and Roll.
Bill lifts his Panels with a fork lift thru the back but uses lumber to spread the load. There is a lot of work to "disconnect" a body/cab. I agree with HRJ to leave it on.