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| | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 182 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 182 | The lead filler over the a-piller seams on my 1941 did not completely cover the seams, so small cracks were visible in the original paint where the lead did not overlap the two parts.
Can I cover over the seams with body filler and expect it not to crack, or do I need to apply more lead to fully cover the seams? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | I would melt and remove all of the lead down to bare metal to make sure the welds underneath are sound and replace with a durable filler made for this kind of application. The old lead seems to oxidize over many decades, and I wouldn't trust it.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | Yes, you can smooth with plastic filler over the lead and it will probably be fine if you don't want to take the time and health risk to do as suggested by Carl. I saw this topic covered on "OverHaulin" and they used a flexible filler of some sort made by 3M. The claim was it was more flexible than regular plastic filler. I think the car being overhauled was a early 70's El Camino
Last edited by DavidF; 05/27/2014 2:21 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | I can't picture the area you're speaking about, would it be possible to use paintable autobody caulking to fill the area? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 182 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2012 Posts: 182 | Thanks for the suggestions. Would fiberglass reinforced filler be the type to use? | | |
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