The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Cutting Oak

I have the wood for the 38 ready to cut using the old for a pattern. Now I can use a Jig saw on the old yellow pine but the new oak is like trying to cut concrete. Mucho smoke coming from saw cut! I'm guessing the grains are really close or dense. Does anyone have a suggestion on the best way to do this? Locating someone with a bandsaw or ????? I guess if all else fails I could take it to a shop.

I'd suggest going the bandsaw route. Oak can be difficult to cut.

John, I assume your trying to use a table saw. After the wood just passes the blade Put a small wedge in the saw kerf. The smoke is from the wood pinching the blade. Good luck

I just got done cutting 3/4 inch thick white oak for a flooring project.At times, I used a hand held circular saw with a $9 40 tooth carbide blade and a hand held jig saw works for rounding corners.I had smoke from the saw blade crosscutting the 2-1/4 inch wide strips with the circular saw, paid no attention.The 40 toooth carbide on the 10 inch table saw cut just fine.

It sounds like your blade is dull. Try a new blade. Your jig saw blade lost its set. Or if you are using a circular saw or table saw - same thing, you need to either sharpen it or buy a new blade.

In this project, I believe a table saw is the way to go. After you cut the planks to length, that is. Then, I would use a table saw to rip them to the correct width and put the grooves in them. You can get the dimensions for the length, width, and side groove sides from GMC Pauls website. This is very helpful information.

Good luck.

Thanks fella's, the outside two planks for the panel aren't straight cuts so I can't use a table saw. The tip for the wedge and different saw blade sounds spot on for both types of cuts. Well I will press on and keep you informed.

Been a woodworker for 20 years, oak will burn unless you have a sharp blade preferably a carbide tipped blade. Band saw will burn oak even with a new blade. Try to do as many cuts on the table saw as possible. Many lumber yards that sell hardwood will cut it for you rather cheaply. The jig saw cuts to slow, it will burn no matter what.

oldbluetrk and coach-frank are right on. I might add one tidbit. Even with sharpen blades etc you need to give the saw time to do its work. Dont' push it faster that it can cut. I use the jig-saw as little as possible. If you use a fine cutting blade it will likely "flare" and the cut will not be "square". If you use a tough thick blade you spend the rest of the evening sanding the rough cut...even if its not seen you want smooth cuts and be sure to prep them good so they won't absorb moisture and split or swell.
I personally like the hollow ground planer blade but it has to have the "set" and sharpen well. good luck. lets us know how it turns out.. i used Oak in my 37 and it still looks nice after 4 years. ....do it once.... do it right

I totally agree regarding using the table saw. 15+ years ago I rebuilt my 53 bed using some extremely hard african wood that was more resistant to the weather elements than Oak. Every cut except the cross (length) cut was done on the tablesaw with very tight tolerances. The Key to sucess is patients and very sharp blades.

Well what wonders when you use new blades etc. I was able to do the outside curves with my jigsaw c/w brand new blade and it went great. Next is the straight cuts and the step downs looks like the concensus is use a table saw.
Thanks for all the good advice