The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors AD Windlace

Just finished installing the rubber windlace in the '53.I belive that is the most frustrating task in restoring the AD cabs there is. This is the 3rd one I have done, and I think it gets more difficult every time.
Cleon

I'll be doing my 53 in a couple days, first need to finish the headliner. Only tip I got on the windlace is: slide down at the gaps in channel top front corner of door, then do back portion and last the part above the door use a screwdriver to tuck that in the channel. Also told to use silicone spray. If you have any more advise I'm all ears.
Thanks
Jim

Jim,

I do not use silicone spray - it is a terrible contaminant for future paint jobs (and for paint jobs in the area in which you use the silicone). I use store-brand personal lubricant - it contains no silicone, and no petroleum based compounds, and it washes away because it is water soluble (many soaps and petroleum-based lubricants could degrade the windlace over time).

Another "trick" for moving the new windlace is to cut off a short piece (if a sufficiently long piece was sent to you). Then run that piece through the channel and pry open the channel where it pinches/obstructs the movement of the small piece of windlace.

Tim, Yes I was concerned about the silicone as well, thanks for caution. Sounds like I need some of that Kentucky Jelly 'KY'! I've gone over the channel once already to pry it open, has several areas that were almost completely flat.
Thanks
Jim

I used the dry method

I used liquid soap. I did open the channel so a 4 inch piece slid thru easily. I then ran the wiindlace thru the channel over the door until there was a equal amount on each side for the vertical channels. It was still very hard to pull. I don't like silicone for the reasons stated above. I think maybe the problem with the soap is, it dries pretty fast and may make the rubber sticky. Any way I'm glad it is done.
Cleon

I used plastic tool to push the seal into the channel for the most part. At the rear, I was successful in sliding the seal into place. For the front, not so much as once I hit the dash, it became too difficult.

Hearing all this, and knowing its ahead of me, I wonder if a person could make a metal tool the size of the channel with a metal handle that could be persuaded into the channel areas that aren't exactly right?

Sure

However, the factory pinches can easily be lifted with a screwdriver.

What about spreading the channel a bit wider before starting the rubber???

A paint can opener works well, also.
Cleon

I tried that with disastrous results at all places where there were curves. The rubber keeps popping out.

Where I opened up my track a little to much I just pinched it back in. Patience.

I've asked the Mrs. to pick up some personal lubricant for me to keep in the garage.........

Did she ask "Why?"?

Patience, smatience. I just screwed the popped out sections down with little screws. I am trying to work on that patience thing, I hear that it can be helpful in some instances,
Carl

Installed passenger side windlace yesterday, all your tips were important, without which job would not have been done. Still it was difficult, had to walk away a few times.

Checked all the channel with small section of new rubber, still found crap in there after several cleanings. (Never got the test piece to go through the top per the curves, which was ok as that area is done with screwdriver). Several spots were damaged and had to address, also filed burrs off a few rough areas until the test piece made it through with no hang ups.

Applied dish washing liquid to channel and windlace, went down back run first then front channel. Last did top section an inch at a time with large flat blade screw driver.
Thanks again fellow Bolters, you're the best!
Jim

We used to install a rubber fitting around the cockpit of F/A 18's using a highly sophisticated specialty tool: a chowhall spoon. If the two are even remotely related, that specialty tool will help in getting the rubber seated into the channel and won't tear it up as quickly.

I took a 6 or 8 inch carriage bolt, I think it was 1/4 inch and ground & shaped the head so it was just larger than the windlace channel. Try to keep the edges of the bolt head rounded, not sharp. I used a light hammer and tapped the bolt into the channel and tapped the bolt all the way around the channel to make the channel just large enough to slide the windlace thru. Did not use a lube.

I got driver's side in a few days ago, section over the door was the worst it didn't like any of my tools. Got it all in except for the back corner over the door, I'm moving on, if it falls out then it's super glue time.