The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors 1949 3100 New door latches or Bear Claw system

My door latches on my 3100 are worn and want to replace them and the strikers. Are they all the same from the suppliers?
Has anyone installed the Bear Claw brand? Is it worth the money?

Gary

Hi Gary,firstly welcome.
There's been a few discussions here regarding the re-pop latches available from many vendors.
It seems a few folks have had issues with quality and fit,although there are springs etc available to rebuild your tired originals.
I suppose it all depends on just how tired yours are.

I myself have had the experience of a door opening whilst on the move,scary considering my lack of seatbelts!
I'm currently running good stock units but will change to bearclaws as soon as funds allow.
I'm not sure how your fabrication skills are but most bearclaw kits require cutting and welding of doors and pillars etc.

Alternatively there is a 'bolt-in' kit available,while not cheap you can save $$$ on paying a shop to install them and to be honest what price is safety?
The final choice is yours I suppose.....

I have had the same experience with the door flying open as I round a corner. Also no seat belts!
I have no welding experience. So I will have to go with a bolt-in. From what I have found Altman is the only bolt-in out there I have found? Right now this is the only thing keeping me from driving it right now.

jockbolter50 Thank you for your input.
Gary

Gary,

Here is a great filmstrip capture that may help. There is a lot you can do with the originals with some work. Drivers side is usually much worse due to use, careful alignment, some simple relatively cheap replacement parts can usually get them to stay closed until a complete rebuild or alternatives are sourced. I hate to see you miss out on enjoying your truck now it is spring!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/sets/72157641244124604/

Yes, I believe Altman is the only "bolt-in" kit. It's not entirely bolt-in though, there is some cutting and modification required.

Thanks Brad, the photos will come in handy. Im soaking the driver side latch now. Im hoping that will help. I have the large spring to put on. The door needs the pins put in it, it sags alittle

Gary, the hinge pins are where you need to start. No latch of any description will be reliable if your door hinges aren't tight and your door isn't aligned properly. The first thing that kills stock latches is sagging doors due to worn hinge pins (lack of periodic lubrication), causing the latches to smash into the catch plates every time the door is closed, damaging both parts. I have been able to repair badly damaged original latches, but it was very labor intensive and I have a really nice TIG welder. Doors are very challenging beasts. I have pulled my hair out (only nose, ear, and pit are readily available in my case) getting them in good working order.
Carl

Thanks, Carl that's where we will start.

Gary here is a great step-by-step on rebuilding your door hinges.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/doors/hinges/index.html

If you go with bear claws go with the Altmans. They're made about 2 miles from me. Talked with the builders/owner of shop and like the prrocesses they use, hardening of the metal/treatments and all to make them last and work right longer than the others. I'll be taking my 50 GMC 450 in for some when I get all the mechanicals worked out. Jim

That I understand but it makes the installation more within the reach of those without adequate welding skills,plus when has anything advertised as bolt-in been exactly that?
Good point about the hinge pins too Carl.

Thanks Brad

Thanks, Jim I was planning on going with Altman when the time comes. But Im starting with replacing the pins. Ive pulled out the drivers latch and am soaking it. Maybe I might get some more time out of the old latches.

Gary

I figured you knew that, I just wanted to make sure anyone else referring to this thread was aware as well

I have yet to try this, but I have been considering using the bear claw latches that are used to hold newer pickup truck tailgates closed. I took a few measurements from my other truck (a 2008 Nissan Frontier) It looks like they latches are a little big. I was thinking of going to a junk yard to pick some up and see ... That being said it is more of an academic pursuit for me. In the end I'll probably spend the money to purchase the Altman latch system.

1949 Chevy 3100... One of the springs malfunctioned on my driver side latch. The door won't close all the way tight. I attempted to remove the latch and ran into two minor problems.

1.)I removed both hold down screws from the outer (chrome) door handle and expected the handle shaft to slide out of the square hole in the latch. I couldn't yank it out. I didn't want to wreck anything, don't have a shop manual and reasoned either the square shaft is stuck due to rust, or there's some clip I can't see holding the shaft in. Is it supposed to just slide out?

2.) There are two screws in the door jamb holding the rear lower window track in place which covers and blocks the latch from coming out. I removed the two screws of course. Is this lower rear window track gently bent out of the way from the bottom, or is it fastened up top somewhere I can't see and meant to be completely removed before the latch will come out?

I just didn't want to remove more than is necessary, so I thought I would ask you experienced guys how it's done. I bought the truck from my brother a couple of months ago, so this is all new to me.

Thanks in advance

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/booklets/4748sctc/4748sctc08.html


http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/booklets/4748sctc/4748sctc07.html

To remove the latch you should only have to remove the two screws on the bottom of the retainer.
...pic...

Here is an interior view of the early doors so you can see how it all interacts. The handle square stock twists on the end over time locking it in on new corners and often needs some persuasion to let loose. Difficulty is there is nothing to pry against without messing up the door skin. It may come down to sourcing a new handle if you have to cut the square? Maybe someone else has a better solution?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/14184302391/in/set-72157631868452754
Also here is a link to the cab manual filmstrip which could help.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/sets/72157641244124604/

I'm going with the Altman latch kit. I have read that stock aftermarket latches are cheap and fall apart. The door latches on my truck look new but there are grooves worn on the striking plate and the driver's side is already falling apart.

Question for anyone who has installed the Altman latches on a 49-51 Chevy 3100. The Altman installation instructions say to remove the window. Is that really necessary? In other words, have any of you R&R'd a latch without removing the entire window? The window channel, guide or whatever you call it seems to block removal of the latch in the rear door jamb. It's held in at the bottom with two screws and not sure how it's held in at the top.

Here's some pictures of my truck. The add hyperlink feature didn't work for me for some reason, so if you want to see photos of my truck, copy and paste the URL below into your browser:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/123856029@N04/

I have only had it for a couple of months and bought it from my brother. It's got a 350 4 bolt main, headers, Edelbrock street carb, shortened Ford rear end, suspension kit, aluminum gas tank under the rear bed and a 350 Turbo Transmission.

Thanks for all of your help in the posts preceding my most recent.

Chuck

The window channels that you refer to are held in by one more screw at the very top. You can see where these are located by looking at this view of the channel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/9479860265/in/set-72157631868452754
I don't know how much work is required with the Altman system but I am guessing you will want the window out for access and to prevent grinding around it. It is only held in with 4 small clutch head screws but soak them good in penetrant because they can be tough to remove.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/12646902905/in/set-72157641244124604

Sometime back I read that you can use 'bearclaw' types from - I think - a VW Jetta. The design is pretty standard. I would give my left a**bone for a proper fitting and latching door.

You may be able to make them work, if you do it post your results.

The appeal of the Altman kit is that someone else already did the engineering for you.

I have a 50 cab but am installing 53 doors. I like the push button and vent windows. As you know, the striker plates are different. Any ideas on an elegant way to do this?