The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Labor Day

Labor Day

Putting down your wrenches or time for
MORE wrenching?

Wrenching this Labor Day
Plenty of places to share.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (Guitplayer, 55shaker, 2-Ton, Stovebolt48), 41 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,018
Posts1,055,259
Members48,417
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1024090 04/25/2014 2:21 AM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 277
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 277
I thought I would post this in case anyone had problems with their straight six running rough (in my case a 1955 first series 235).

My engine vibrated a lot but would start right up. It sucked a lot of gas, I knew this because the truck was not on the road yet and my gas tank was an "IV" bottle. I figured the carburetor must be overfilling and dumping too much gas into the intake.

I ordered a carburetor rebuild kit and replaced the accelerator pump, the float needle and seat, and one gasket. The truck seemed to run better and I figured I might as well set the timing. Well I could not get the light to trigger on the number one cylinder. I thought maybe the light was bad and then I realized that the number one cylinder wasn't firing. I removed the distributor cap and found it to be horribly worn on the inside. I had an old spare and put it on. The truck ran pretty darn good :-)

I thought for good measure that I should get a new cap. You can get them at Autozone for about $9.00. When I put the new cap on I was amazed at how smooth the engine was! (the rotor, points, and condenser were already new). It is really quiet too.

The moral of the story is if your engine is running rough check to make sure the float is shutting off the gas and that the float level is set correctly and by all means get a new distributor cap. It can make a huge difference :-)

Joe


1955 First Series 3100
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,084
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
A Offline
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,084
Thanks Joe. Was that a Rochester 2 bbl? Any tricks on that rebuild kit or pretty straightforward? I'm guessing the needle valve adjustments or in the shop manual or the kit?


Allen
Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude

1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer
1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer
1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod
1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great
1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week
1974 Stingray Corvette

Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 277
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 277
It was a Rochester 1 bbl. The kit has a lot of little parts for a bunch of different carburetors but the only things I found useful was the accelerator pump and the float shut off. Float height is 1-9/32 closed and 1-3/4 open as measured from the top half of the carburetor (with gasket) to the top of the float. Its also in the instructions that come with the kit.

Joe

P.S. yes the kit was real easy

Last edited by mendonjo; 04/25/2014 3:54 AM.

1955 First Series 3100
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,061
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,061
Plug wires are also very important.


1946 1-ton Panel
1952 1-ton Comml. W/Grain Body
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
Mendonjo, did you ever get to check the timing??? Was going to recommend fine tuning that timing with a vacuum gauge. You will be surprised how much better you can tune your motor.


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,836
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Online: Content
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,836
Geez,
It's been 10+ years since I've touched my plugs, wires, cap, points. Maybe one of these days.....when it quits running so well. :-)


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0