the 'pin' in the cap is fixed, the spring tab on top the rotor keeps a pressure on that pin, doesn't hurt to pull the rotor contact up a bit to insure it's pressing firmly
"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir "When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me Some TF series details & TF heater pics
That extra yellow wire is swerving as a ground wire. You don't need it, the dist. housing itself is the ground to the engine block. If you have checked everything like you say and have power to the coil, it should start. I think you have a ground problem , the wire from the condensor to the points, Or the wire that comes from the coil to the points passes through the dist. body. If the insulator block that it passes through is broken it will not start as the power will be going to ground. Take the dist cap off and look at the points, the rubbing block on the points must be on the flat part of the dist cam, turn the ignition on , and take a screwdriver and open the points, you should see a nice spark. If you don't see the spark you are not getting voltage to the points and the engine will not start. good luck , keep reporting back. With all the help here, we will get you going again.
Problem could be anything. I once flipped a Corvair and while doing the engine "improvements", I replaced all the decades old ignition components. No start condition was the result. Turned out I got a BOOB part somewhere along the line. I believe it was the condenser. Moral of the story: just because it is new does not mean it works (BOOB = Bad Out Of Box).
The rotor engages, the rubbing block is on the flat part, opened the points and a nice blue spark engaged. No diffrence when extra ground cable removed...
But now the problm remains thati need start spray to be able to start the engine, andit only runs on 1000-ish rpm and up.. i know it now longer isnt a eletrical question, but how do i adjust the carburator so it will run smoothly on idle?
or should i wait until i got the new spark plugs? those which ar in the engine now are quite worn out..
Edit: If you're wondering why i've got a spark from the plugs now: No idea. I just did what tommy said (test if there's a spark when using a screwdriver between the points) and after that it was functioning.
Glad to hear it is running. Now to do the timing and set the carb. A vacuum gauge is most helpful and use the search function to see posts about how to use it. If it won't get better it may be time to rebuild that carb. Do things one step at a time. Get the timing set, set the idle mixture, and speed, adjust the valves, and see how it goes. You might be surprised by how these things make a difference. Check your oil pressure and oiling at the rocker arms. You are on the way.
What a bummer, engines on cars is not my strong part. Brakes, axles, and all mechanic and most electric stuff i like, but carbs, timing, and everything within the engine block is a bit to advanced for me.. hope my buddy has time to look at it. Taking the carb apart sounds scary..
are vacuum gauges expensive? EDIT: nvm, found one for 5 bucks. Should i put it on the small pipe to the windscreenwipers on the carb?
Raoul, Do you have a vacumn leak? Check the intake manifold bolts. If not you will probably need to remove the carb and clean it as somethging is plugging up the idle ciciut in the carb.
This might be a dumb suggestion,since I'm not that informed on the old dizzy's. Here goes: Raoul,does your distributor have an altimeter adjustment on it? Some do,to compensate for thinner air,leaner fuel/at higher altitudes. would this being too far out of adjustment cause an idling issue? This would be connected to the vacuum-advance body,as well,right?
hey guys! I've been busy with work lately so didnt have time to look at my chevy. But today i did!
Allright lets see:
- Timing is set as i said. - The engine will fire up, but only with starter gas/spray, then it dies. - when i crank the engine without the ignition on, gasoline comes to the carb, but the sparkplugs remain dry. - when teh engine has been cranked, the fuelbowl inside the carb is filled. - I used canned air to blow thrue the idle screw thing with the hole in it (dont recall its name) and it got thrue. I blew air thrue almost everything. Its hard to know what to do when i cant wrap my mind around how the carb works.
But it must be something with the carb. As I said, when i spray startergas in to the carb, the engine fires up witouht much of a problem. But cant continue because (i think) no gasoline is going all the way thru the carb.
Any suggestions? how can i test if the carb leaks? no gas is dripping out, but thats ofcourse because it sucks air.
Damnit! I feel im sooo close!
Edit: Also, i'm not sure if the windscreenwipers worked before, but when i crank the engine, w/o it fireing up, the wipers dont work either. Should they? could that mean i've got a vacuumleak?
"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir "When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Let's look at your carb. With the ignition OFF, air cleaner removed from carb, look down into the carb and open the throttle. You should see a stream of gas squirt when you open the throttle, if you don't see the gas squirt you have one of two problems. (1) no gas in the fuel bowl, (2) a bad accelerator pump.
Let us determine what we have before we go any further. If you have no gas in the fuel bowl, you have a plugged up filter or a stuck needle valve on the float inside the carb. If you spray starter fluid in the carb and the engine starts, does it continue to run or does it stop? If it continues to run you probably have a bad accelerator pump. Let us know what you find, and then we will try to help you fix the problem.
If you look on utube videos for rochester model B carb rebuild, there are a number of videos that will walk you through a rebuild, this is not that complex of a carb, YOU can fix it.
Allright, found a good video on youtube, took my carb apart as much as i could, got away a lot of greasy thick stuff. made sure all canals were clean and blew thrue it. Its cleaner than ever, but still, no starting engine.. What should i do now?
When you move the throttle do you see a squirt of fuel in the carb? Does the fuel bowl have fuel in it? If you squirt starter fluid in the carb, will the engine start and continue to run, or will it just die?
Okay, so there's something wrong with the accelerator pump i guess?
When full throttle, nothing squirts out. But still, arent idle and acceleration two diffrent injections on this carb?
This is the first time i'm trying to fix a car carb, so im not to good at it.
I cant find a rebuild kit online.. does anyone know? got a rochester model B i guess, with an (extra) round thingy on the front to configure leaner/richer mixture. (much like this one exept that it has the round thingy up front: )
i guess its time to rebuild it because i cleaned the F out of it..
FYI: when my stepdad slowly added gas in the carb, the engine started without a problem and continued to run untill the gas in the cup was gone.
Look up Carbking on this site. He has the kit you need and good instructions. You can do this. It is not rocket science. Just take your time and follow the directions it will work. Most common issues are, Stuck needle in the seat, Float that won't float, Float set at the wrong height, dirt in the passages, and the ever popular bad accelerator pump. Those are in no particular order just the most common things that make us nuts. A good kit will have a new pump, gaskets, seat balls, and instructions. It will also be for your carb. It may include some new springs. The video you linked to is pretty good. It can be helpful. There should be a metal tag on one of the screws at the top of the carb. That is the number you need for the right kit.
You have a carb with a blocked passage in the body. You need to disassemble the entire carb and soak it in carb cleaner for a few hours, then rinse and blow out every passage. Then make sure every check ball is out of the carb and soak again,then clean and start reassembly.Take you time and check everything as you do it ,step by step.
When you are finished put some gas in the fuel bowl, with the carb fully assembled and open the throttle, you WILL see gas squirt down the center of the carb. If everything was cleaned and set correctly.
i ordered a new kit from mikes carbs ( a friend of mine said it was good stuff) so hopefully that'll work! Long deliverytime but i'll keep you guys updated! Thanks a lot for all the help so far!
(today i lost a checking ball to so my carb is now useless)
Thanks a lot for helping me out!! Changed all the parts inside the carb, runs beautifully!!
One question though, between the flywheel an engine is oil dripping. Quite a lot. How is the round gasket called that I have to replace? Are there different models? Need to fix it so I can drive my beauty this summer
It's called a "rear main bearing seal" and they're a P I T A to change! It involves dropping the oil pan, loosening all the main bearings, removing the rear main bearing cap, and coaxing the rope seal out of the groove above the crankshaft. There's a corresponding piece of braided seal in the main cap. Check the tech tips on this site and you'll find a lot of information about resealing a rear main, and some disappointing facts about how unreliable most of the ones available today are since they took the asbestos out of the seal ropes.
One particular brand is better than the rest, but I've got CRS disease right now. Maybe somebody else can help out! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Only one i found. But it says it's only compitable with the 3.8L engine, and not the 3.5L. Is there a diffrence? Where could i buy a new clutch otherwise?
"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir "When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me Some TF series details & TF heater pics
That should get it done. A clutch is really quite simple. A friction disk, a flywheel, and a spring loaded presser plate. The trick is to get them to fit and work properly. If it fits in the space (diameter). And it mates with the transmission input shaft (splines). And the presser plate bolts to the flywheel (manufactures). You are good to go. I have run a Jeep friction disc on a chevy flywheel with a chevy presser plate. Was a good cheap way to match the Jeep trans to the chevy engine. Worked just fine.
The clutch disc only fits ONE WAY. Notice when you disassemble it the orientation of the disc to the flywheel. Sometimes ithe disc may be stamped this side to flywheel. Take your time and do it right the first time.
Tommy, do you mean I might have put the disc in back-to-front? I've removed the gearbox, clutch and flywheelr before I made the truck run. Could it be that if I flip the disc, my clutch works properly again? Because now the clutch slips on every gear making the trucks acceleration terrible...
My dad said he doesn't remember having a bad clutch when he owned it last time it ran. But he drove it very, very slowly
Yes, if the disc is backwards the hub (center) may be hitting the bolts that hold the flywheel on. It won't be making contact with the flywheel completely and could be slipping.
