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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 143 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 143 | First restoration I've ever done so some rookie questions here. I'm restoring my '50 3100 and electrical is definitely not my strong point. I have the frame setting on wheels with the rear end, front suspension and brakes basically completed. I dropped in a rebuilt '56 235 out of a Bel Air and want to test run the engine before I reassemble the cab & bed onto the frame. Got everything bolted in and ready except the wiring. I've converted to an alternator setup so I've got the DA Plug. I need to know if the following setup is what I need to simply start the engine and run it to break in the cam & dial it in:
1. The + side battery cable connects to the starter switch. 2. A 10 ga wire runs from the starter switch to the amp meter + terminal. 3. A 14 ga wire from the ignition switch to the amp meter - terminal. 4. The heavy alternator wire connects to the - terminal of the amp meter . 5. The light gauge alternator wire connects to ignition switch terminal. 6. A 10 gauge wire runs from the ignition switch to the resistor then to + side of coil. 7. A 10 gauge wire runs from the - side of coil to distributor.
My first question is does this sound correct? Am I missing anything? Second, do I need a resistor for the amp meter since it's originally a 6 volt? Next, the ignition switch has 3 terminals and I'm not sure where the wires outlined above connect? There are no markings on the switch/terminals and the diagram in the shop manual only shows 2 being used. Finally, do I need to ground the ignition switch? Thanks!
It never costs more to ask and it never costs more to think big.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 324 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 324 | What starter are you using? What key switch? If you have a foot pedal starter your key would have only battery and ignition terminals, maybe a accessory terminal.
General ignition switch info. One terminal will be battery voltage in. One terminal will be ignition connection, battery voltage when the key is on. A third Terminal could be accessory, Battery voltage when key is on. If it is a Starter key switch, then one terminal is starter solenoid, battery voltage when key turned to start, Also the accessory is not on during start. Switch does not ground unless it has a back light. The light would have a terminal.
Nothing needed for the amp meter, Amps are amps 6 or 12 volt. There should be some kind of by pass from the ballist resistor to the ignition during start to make it easier to fire up.
Someone else will help with the alternator connections.
"It ain't a truck if you can't hose out the cab."
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 143 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 143 | I'm using the original 6 volt starter and original key switch from the truck. Has the original floor start set up. Basically, the 235 engine is the only change.
Also, which side of the amp meter is + and which is negative. They are not marked. Thanks.
It never costs more to ask and it never costs more to think big.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | jss1956,
You did your research...good job. On the ammeter, the CHARGE side is the battery side is the + side...make sense. The other side of course is the DISCHARGE side...the - side, where all the loads, and alternator connect.
Your wire sizes for keyswitch to coil and coil to distributor are way to heavy. 14 gauge would be fine. I would step the ammeter to keyswitch wire gauge up to a 12 ga.
Your alternator #1 (smaller wire) goes exactly where you indicated, and #2 can wrap around to the large BATT lug.
You don't need to ground the ignition switch, and I'm not sure of the terminal functions on it, but a ohmmeter would sure help you out.
I don't know what system a '56 car had, but if you're running 12 volts, the best idea would be to have a internally resisted 12 volt coil, then no ballast resistor or other monkey motion is required.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | If all you want to do is start and run the engine you only need two wires and a set of jumper cables. A hill can be substituted for the jumper cables, although you will still need a ground wire from battery to engine
One wire from coil to distributor one wire from battery to coil, pull it off to kill the engine. connect the jumper cables to battery, engine ground, and the post on the starter. Step on the button to start, or jump with a screwdriver between little post and hot post if it has a solenoid.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 | I love this thread. I'll be following this one perty close and then I'll print it out for the garage!
Jss1956...you're diffently smarter then you think about the wiring process. | | |
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