The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Torque tube details needed

I'm getting ready to install my rebuilt engine and trans back in my 50 chevy 3100. My engine builder mentioned that he could not find the gasket needed for the rear of the trans. I removed the pivoting yoke cover and found the u joint at rear of trans very loose in both directions and evidence where it has been hitting the torque tube round pivoting housing. It seems like some type of spacer is missing that allows the ujoint to slide in and out of the bearing cups as if it is the wrong part. Where might I find a new u joint and what types of seals are needed for this type of driveshaft set up? This is my first encounter with a torque tube. Please help?

Do you have any photos? Many things could be the issue and a photo may help us diagnose the issue.

Getting a new "U" joint has become an issue lately. I might have misunderstood the description so if I have then disregard what follows. The "yoke" of the U-joint is bolted to the output shaft on the transmission. It slides on the drive shaft at least forward and aft. This allows for the difference in drive shaft length as the rear wheels go up and down. The "U" joint should have some but not a lot of movement along the bushings that are trapped with the rather small bolts that secure it to the yoke. Most movement is controlled by the bushing in the torque tube. If you have some signs that the "U" joint is hitting inside the ball then look at the bushing in the torque tube. You may need to replace it and the repair part is called an okie bushing. I hope this is of some help. The gasket set for the transmission is very inexpensive and available from most vendors. So buy the set for the gasket you need.
This is just one example of the gasket set.This is for the 4 speed.
http://www.classicparts.com/1948-67-Transmission-Gasket-Set-4-Speed/productinfo/91-925/#.U0H0iPldW6E

And this is for the 3 speed
http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-Transmission-Gasket-Set-3-Speed/productinfo/91-905/#.U0H1DvldW6E

Thanks gentleman for your input! The pics from Steve H are exactly what I needed to know about as well as where to purchase. I definitely have a problem with the u joint because it is moving back and forth more than a half inch and now I know what I was hearing when I drove the truck down my driveway before it was all taken apart. I heard the yoke hitting the stationary outer metal of the torque tube. I will be showing what I found to my neighbor/friend and he will be able to steer me in the right direction. a new u joint will likely be part of whats next. Check out my new paint guys! Just loaded new pictures. All parts were painted individually and I'm excited about getting it all back together!

I finished my "52" last spring with a complete overhaul of the drive line. After only about 500 miles something felt wrong. Found my new u-joint failed. There must have been a design problem as a new part could not be purchased from any supplier. I was able to find someone on e-bay that had new original u-joints. I purchased mine for $75 but when this seller found that the replacement u-joints could not be found his price went to around $175. Here is a picture of the new failed part and the new original part. You can see where the reproduction failed. The original is all steel, much better design, and still running fine after 2500 miles.

Thanks Bart for that information! I know a place in Richmond that can machine parts for anything. I may be seeing them soon to see if they can help.

The color of your truck looks similar to my truck. This color is 1972 Gran Torino. I had the same Ford that was in the movie when I was much younger and painted my truck that same color.

No sir Bart. That's not a ford color I used, That is GM Black! The high quality PPG clearcoat is so shiny that it is hard to realize that you are seeing reflections in most pictures. It was very expensive but I cant stop smiling everytime I look at it!!

I didn't mean to insult your paint. I was saying that MY truck was a Ford color. A closer look I can see now that yours is straight black. It does have quite a reflection to it. Looks good. Good luck with your u-joint.

No offense taken sir (Bart). I have had no luck locating a new u joint but I had a friend tell me about someone that may help. I'll be checking next week and I will let the stovebolt community know if I have success finding a replacement torque tube u joint.

hardsell,

Please excuse this question if it answered somewhere above: are you looking for a 1950 1/2 ton enclosed drive-shaft universal joint repair kit? Or, are you looking for a u-joint and front and rear yokes (the complete assembly)?

That is the one I have on back order. Still waiting for an estimated shipping date...been two weeks or so...I did look at the one on E-bay...but 165 dollars is not gonna happen. So still no source as far as I can tell. I do need to bite the bullet and get an "okie" bushing but they have gone up to about 90 to 100 dollars so that might take a minute to put together. I think there is a difference in the front yoke between a 3 speed and a 4 speed. I suspect the out put shafts are different diameters and spline counts..Any one know for sure?

You have a:
1950 Chevy 3100,
What type of transmission do you have?
3 speed and 4 speed trannys have different front yokes/flanges.
All 47-54 Car & 1/2 ton Truck torque tubes, use the same u-joint/trunnion and rear yoke. PICTURE scroll down lower right corner of page.
Regardless of what type of tranny.
Cut away view of Torque tube scroll down.

Parts needed to replace u-joint:
Ball housing collar paper/gasket shims
Ball housing collar cork gasket
Torque tube retainer (screw on ring) 2 steel O-ring washers and 1 rubber O-ring oil seal.
u-joint, u-joint bolts, u-joint bolt locking plates.

Parts needed to install Okie bushing:
Okie bushing
Front Torque tube bushing puller tool
Read my Okie bushing POST
How puller tool works. Picture

These GUYS Northwest Transmission Parts have everything you need to do the Job. Ask for John
Make sure to fill tranny and ball housing with gear lube before you take the truck for a ride.

These GUYS vapinc.com make the Okie bushings & bushing puller tool that everyone sells. Cheaper

Remember to keep your ears out of your fingers

That is helpful. Thanks for the links!

One other thing you might want to check if you decide to install a Okie bushing.
This step will help you from pulling all the hair out of your head.

The front and rear propeller shaft bushings on 1937-49 and early 1950 models
are doweled and the dowels are peened in place. Check illustration and instructions, page 1 and page 2 (illustration not to scale)
In order to remove the front bushing with the bushing puller tool, you will have to drill out the dowel.
I am not sure but I think the Okie bushing does not reach far enough down the torque tube to come in contact with the rear bushing.
So, there would be no need to drill out the rear bushing dowel pin.
Once you get the front bushing out, I would stick a tape measure down the torque tube to see if there is enough room for the Okie bushing.
If not, drill out rear bushing dowel.
When you install the Okie bushing, the existing rear bushing and oil seal will just be pushed farther down the torque tube.
If you have the later 1950-1954 press fit bushings no need to drill out dowels, just pull away.

My elderly next door neighbor was telling me about a draw bridge he installed on his house.
It turns out he installed his garage door up-side down.

Thanks guys for all this information posted. I am going to rebuild this torque tube since it would make no sense to put this tired torque tube back in service without new bearings and seals. I bit the bullet and bought a new ujoint off of ebay. ( It was time to get it while I'm numb from all the other purchases made lately, LOL! I will keep at it until this thing is mobile! Your help is appreciated!

jorb: Thanks for the drawing. I have tried to figure how that puller works. Never could see how it got past the bushing and then caught the back side. Ah Ha moment when I figured out what the sleeve with the long bit was for...hey! I got my way of learning. So now I can get the bushing and the puller for the price of the bushing alone. Now I have to figure where the money will come from...Thanks!

If you going to rebuild the entire torque tube and the replace the ring and pinion gear bearings and axle housing oil seals.
While you have the pinion gear and propeller shaft out of the torque tube.
You can use a long pipe from the pinion gear end of the torque tube and push out
the old propeller shaft oil seal, rear bushing and front bushing.
By doing it this way, means you don't need the bushing puller tool.
This is kinda how the GM mechanics did it before they came up with the Okie bushing.
The propeller shaft will run cooler with that old rear bushing and oil seal removed anyways.

Since your going to have it all apart.
You might want think about putting in a high speed 3.55 ring and pinion gear set. So you can drive at highway speeds.
These GUYS Patrick's have just the gears or you can buy a complete rear end installation kit. Click here
3.55 ring and pinion gear set $450.00
The rear end installation kit includes the Okie bushing and u-joint ball housing seal kit. $367.00 everything you need to rebuild torque tube,3rd member and rear axle, minus ring and pinion gears.
Mother Trucker sells the 3.55 ring and pinion gear set a couple bucks cheaper. Sorry no link for Mother Trucker.

If I leave the original gears in this rear of the truck, What kind of top speed or maximum traveling speed should I expect? My only present plans for helping the gear ratio change a little on this truck was just to simply increase the tire size slightly. I am aware that the truck gearing is very high but I have only driven this thing twice on the farm where I live

65-70 mph more like 65 with the 3.55 gears.

The top comfortable speed from the original 4.11 gear set, would be about 50 mph.
Changing tire size will also help a little in lowering engine RPM.
But if your going to drive it around the farm leave the 4.11 gears set in there.
Check your original Axle gear ratio in 1950 Truck Specifications PDF page 58 under Rear Axles.

Sorry on previous post, I thought you were asking about the top speed for the 3.55 gears set.