The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Rear Brake Drum Removal problem

Got the front brakes done. Now, I thought, the rear.
I started by trying to remove the dust cover/cap. I suppose that i what it i called.

Either I couldn't figure out how to remove it, or it is rusted in. After 61 years....hard to imagine.

Any ideas on how to remove that?

There is no dust cap/cover on the rear hubs. The drum is just held on by the wheel and lug nuts.

John

As John says plus it's probably somewhat rusted around the center part of the axle. Providing you have a 1/2 ton truck. Spray some penetrating oil around the axle flange, back off the adjusters, tap the drum and it should come off.
Fred

What vehicle are you working on? If there are 8 bolts with 3/4" heads in the center of the hub, that's a 3/4 ton full-flosting axle, and the bolts are holding the axle shaft in. Loosen the bolts about 2-3 turns and smack the center of the axle HARD with a big hammer- - - -the axle will pop loose from the hub.

If you've got a 6-lug wheel with no bolts in the center, that's a 1/2 ton axle. The drum just slides off the wheel studs, but it could be rusted tight to the wheel-centering flange in the middle. Soak that area with penetrating oil and tap the area between the wheel studs repeatedly with a hammer- - - -the drum should come loose eventually.
Jerry

If it is a 1/2 ton, make sure you put the drum back on the right way around. There is a small hole that aligns to let any grease that gets past the seal out, without it getting on the brake shoes.
Sometimes if you have a ridge worn in the inside of the drum, you may need to back off the shoes to get the drum off.

John

Do you have to remove the axle to remove the drum on the 3/4 ton trucks?? John

The drum on 3/4-tons is also held on by two countersunk standard screws. They can be stuck pretty good so penetrating oil is good, as a last resort I have drilled their centers out with a small bit which relieves them.

I've gotten into the habit of pulling the hub and inspecting bearings/changing oil seals anytime I'm doing brake work for a couple of reasons- - - -nothing ruins a new brake job quicker than a leaky seal, and that big honkin' hub makes it difficult to work around it when installing the brake shoes. It's also more accurate when machining the drum if it's still mounted on the hub when it's on the brake drum lathe.
Jerry

Guys thanks alot. I'll give it all a try tomorrow if I can. Let you know.

Sorry. Don't know why I keep forgetting to list my truck type. It is a 1953 3100.


Steven

I have heard of people drilling the drums in 2 places and tapping them, then putting a screw in to push the drums away from the axles. Its a problem Steven.. so don't feel like the Lone Ranger. Penetrating oil, big hammer, but.. DO make sure you have the brake shoes very loose so they aren't a factor!

List your truck in your signature line, might help when you forget to list it in your question..
Here is a pic of the inside drum, you can see where corrosion can build
...pic...
I did just as the guys are suggesting, penetrating oil, tap in a few places and it finally came.

Thanks Deve

DAD550....thanks....updated

Your video is touching.

Ok. Thanks guys. Right rear side is off. I will try the left side tomorrow....for now off to work.