| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
2 members (klhansen, KEVINSKI),
63
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,130 Posts1,056,706 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | 
#10184 04/02/2004 12:11 AM | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 4 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 4 | Help! I am rebuilding a '61 Chevy 235 six cylinder. The gasket set I bought has two types of rear main seals. One is the wick type and the other is an orange neoprene/plastic type. Does anyone know which one is the right one for my engine? The obvious question is--What was in there before? and the answer is that the guy who took it apart at the machine shop can't remember.
Second question, if the wick type seal is the right one, does it lay flush all around the bearing cap and the upper groove? If I put that one in, part of the seal is above the surface, and the bearing cap won't go down flat on the block. However, the neoprene seal fits flush all around. Can anybody help? Thanks!
Fantm2flyer | | |
#10185 04/02/2004 12:17 AM | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,445 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,445 | Do a search for "rear main bearing seal" and you will come up with all the answers your heart (beat) desires.
Speaking of rear main bearing seal replacement, I just did my 350... thanks to Oly...
I also put in a one piece pan gasket... highly recommended, even at 5x the cost of a cheap 4 piece set.
Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | |
#10186 04/02/2004 12:35 AM | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 4 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 4 | Thanks, Rusty Rod! You were right, there are a lot of rear main bearing posts. And I got the answer I was hoping for--use the neoprene seal.
Thanks again from a first time forum user! | | |
#10187 04/02/2004 4:20 AM | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 327 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 327 | NO!!! The answer is a big NO!!! Not the neoprene- USE the wick-type seal. It will do a much better job for you.
Oly in Oregon Rest in Peace1945 GMC COE Victory Truck 1953 Willys CJ3B 1955 Chevy 1st series 3/4-ton 1958 WIFE Last series Never say "Whoa" in a mud hole
| | |
#10188 04/02/2004 5:12 AM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 988 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 988 | I agree with Oly BIG NO but if you use the neopreme on Make sure you remeber where you put the wick type because you will be changing it in the future.
As for the wick type the instalation is easy. Lay one half of the seal into the grove. Use a socket or something similar to roll over the seal. This will help to seat the seal. Once that is done trim the excess with a razor blade. Repeat for the bearing cap. Install bearings, crank etc etc....
Good Luck
Brian Moore
1949 3100 5 window Deluxe
"Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow"
| | |
#10189 04/02/2004 5:26 AM | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 327 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 327 | But, when you trim that wick seal remember to leave around 1/64 inch sticking out. The excess will squish fine when you torque down the cap.
Oly in Oregon Rest in Peace1945 GMC COE Victory Truck 1953 Willys CJ3B 1955 Chevy 1st series 3/4-ton 1958 WIFE Last series Never say "Whoa" in a mud hole
| | |
#10190 04/03/2004 5:01 AM | Joined: May 2003 Posts: 90 Member | | Member Joined: May 2003 Posts: 90 | I would agree with Oly on this. Rope is the way to go.
What I noticed is the neoprene seal rides on a very thin edge on the crank. The cranks on these old 235's are not perfect. Mine had just a bit of pitting on the seal area. If I had used the neoprene it was sure to leak. The rope has a wider sealing surface and can accomodate imperfections better. The other thing I had noticed is that the neoprene did not sit in the slot in the cap or the block as well. I think they might even leak around the outside of the seal even if your crank was perfect.
Just my thought.
Brent | | |
#10191 04/03/2004 3:26 PM | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 324 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 324 | I would agree with Oly and the outhers. Use only the wick seal.
On a recent rebuild I made that mistake thinking that the new seal would be "new and inproved" 2 weeks later I'm under the truck replacing the rear main seal. Beleive me it is much easier while the engine is out of the vehicle. | | |
|
|
| |
