The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 41 Chevy Project Truck

Hello to all. We are new to this forum as we have just purchased a 41 Chevy Longbed that we plan to build. I'm a big time Ford guy but my son who is 12 has been bothering me non stop about wanting to build an old truck. We have built many cars, a few show cars, but all have been new or late model cars. This is our first classic, or should I say antique!! We came across this 41 Chevy a buddy of mine just found in a barn so my son wouldn't leave me alone until it was on the car hauler. Before we picked it up we jumped on this board, and a few other places looking for pointers for building this truck. We decided real fast that we want to go the hotrod route instead of original restore due to fact that he wants this to be his daily driver. We would like to build and showcase the truck here in this forum. However do I have to have so many posts before I can post pictures?? Any ideas you guys have for the build are very welcome!! I would be very interested to know from those of you that know way more than I do about this, but it seems like I've come across a great find being a pre war 41 Chevy longbed. I would love to have an idea of what this truck is worth. Or will be worth when done. Not that we will ever sell it I just want to know how much compared to what it's going to cost to build it. We will chop it, drop it, bag it, new bed with floor wood kit, probably 350 crate motor etc. almost everything original is there. But it will need a new bed, new fenders, pretty much almost everything replaced. Cab is in pretty good shape. How do I post pics? Lol

I found out how to post pics!!!

[url=http://http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn223/runninpony2/a416c02f3d8d900b2432c1223ba01be8.jpg]41 Chevy Picture[/url]

You link didn't work - too many http://



http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn223/runninpony2/a416c02f3d8d900b2432c1223ba01be8.jpg

Nice truck!

Don't think they were called 'longbeds' in 41. They were 3/4 ton. The light duty 3/4 ton had the same brakes, six lug wheels etc. as the 1/2 ton, just longer.

BTW, if you are going custom, I'm looking for a differential/axle housing from a truck such as yours.

Best of luck.

So this truck must be a 3/4 Ton then. The previous owner told me it was a half ton.

If this is a 3/4 ton does that add to the value? Or I guess what do people prefer the half ton, or the 3/4 ton? I guess that may be a dumb question considering almost all hotrod guys seem to be half ton short bed.
Being a Ford guy and not knowing much on Chevy history, it sure seems like Chevy has one heavy following, especially for the older cars/trucks. Even more so I find Chevy guys than Ford. Seems odd considering Ford should have more fans and more trucks on the road. But the older Fords seem more rare than Chevy. Am I wrong?? If this had been a 41 F100, I would be head over heels in love. I wouldn't go as far to say this will turn me over to Chevy, but I sure like this old truck!!

The 1/2 ton is more popular, as you said.

Well I found out it is indeed a 3/4 ton. At least it won't be the normal half ton short bed everyone else has!!

I have a 46 1/2 ton that I built, I changed mine from 6 lug to 5 lug and put in a dropped axle in front and an s-10 rear in the back, I still have the original 216 motor in mine with a t-5 5 speed trans and it runs good, but im in the middle of building a 235 for it now,there are a lot of parts available for you're truck, click on my link below and look thru my pics on photobucket,I documented alot of my build..

Guys I really need some help and pointers from you experienced guys. Do I keep this frame or do I need to look for another frame??
From most research it seems everyone welds on a from mustang II front end. And does the 4 link rear with bags. And also 9" ford rear end is common
Bit I stopped at a local hotrod shop yesterday and the guy says I should just find me a whole new frame with modern suspension, and possibly even motor and tranny already in it
The thing is my truck is 125" wheelbase 3/4 ton and I'm real interested in doing the stretched cab thing. So I don't know if I need to keep this gram. Or look for another. What other frames would work well. Or why not keep this one. Wouldn't it be easier/cheaper??

Other than it being a "barn find" you haven't told much about the truck itself. Is it all original or has it had it's fair share of mods over the years?

If it's mostly original than, then IMO it would be a shame to cut it. Better off selling it and finding one that someone has already started on. There just isn't enough original stuff left out there.

My '41 was converted long before I purchased it and made a good starting platform. I went with a weld on IFS from TCI and 4 link (no air bags) also from TCI.

If you are worried about cost, the cheapest way is to purchase one that's already finished. 'cause we all know you can't get out of them what you put into them.........

From what I can tell, which isn't a whole lot as I said this is definitely my first classic build. But I was told everything with the truck is original. It doesn't appear that anything has been modified to the truck in any way.
The frame from the cab to the rear bumper was sanded and painted and looks nice, but from the rear of cab forward they didn't do that part. So they didn't ever take the cab off.
I seriously considered doing a complete original restoration since most stuff seems to be here. I believe I could even save original fenders etc. however it is missing part of the running boards. A friend of mine sold his tricked out 67 Chevy hotrod and he sold it for 88K. He says completely restored he figures I could get 60-65K for this truck. Of course if I go hotrod its a whole different game and you never know it's only worth what someone else will pay for it!!
But my son is in love with this truck. He wants to go hotrod and he doesn't want to sell it. Although I told him we should restore it. Then take the cash and buy us a real truck. A Ford. Lol. I'm just messing you hardcore Chevy guys please don't beat me down for that comment lol.

No restored truck will go for that money around here. Check the classifieds, the ones up in that range aren't selling in this area. Most factory-restored trucks are in the $10-25K range.

You need to decide what YOU want. We can give you all the opinions you ask for, but you won't be happy unless you decide for yourself.

You can get an S-10 frame in a 124" WB or in a 117" wheelbase, if you like. I like the S-10 route as all the engineering is done, the brakes and suspension are all designed to work together and it drives, handles, and stops as a modern vehicle should. The front end and rear end kit route can work, but I've driven a lot that just aren't right.

Do you want a restored truck, or do you want a truck that's more modern?

I've decided for sure we want to go the swb short bed route and I'm currently looking for a extended cab or long bed S-10 donor truck to get a frame to get this party started. If any of you guys know of an S-10 frame for sale please let me know.
If I were to find a S-10 project truck in which the truck had already been slammed and bagged. And say it was done right with quality stuff. Wouldn't that setup possibly be able to be used. I found one in another state with 22's on it slammed already. But missing a couple fenders and few other parts so it was pretty cheap at $1800. Or would I be better off getting S-10 frame and doing all the bags and lowering myself so I know its done right?? Will all of the front end parts, steering, brakes etc all be able to be used from the frame?? Will I need to go with a different rear end at least to hold up to V-8 and have the correct width I need especially going with 2? wider rear fenders?? Thanks guys!!
41 Chevy Rendering

Take a look at my photobucket, I'm not sure if you have yet.

When I was looking for a frame I put an ad on Kijiji (what we use instead of Craigslist) and I had my pick of frames. It might be worth it for you to try that.

If the work done to the frame is good, then you can definitely start with an already bagged truck. Mounting these cabs to the S-10 frame is a little tricky just at the front of the cab (the frame widens and the cab narrows), but I was able to get around this easily, although it does limit how low the truck can be on the frame.

Yes, you can use all the steering parts. I think I've mentioned this to you already, but in addition to the frame and stock rear end, I used the brake booster and pedal, steering column, steering shaft, seat, emergency brake pedal and cables, gas pedal, gas tank, filler neck, steering column/booster brace (under dash), etc. from the S-10. I had a stripped frame as well as a complete 92 parts truck so I got all the parts I needed. I really think this is the way to do it, especially as far as the brakes, since everything is meant to work together.

No, you don't need a different rear end. It's a huge misconception that because these are light-duty trucks that they were built light. My dad's '52 1/2 ton has a 454 with over 20,000 KM's on the s-10 rear end and it holds up just fine. I've got the stock rear end in my '46 with a 455 Buick as well.

You can make a choice though since you're planning on using 2" wider fenders. I used the stock rear end, with 15x10" rear wheels with 3-3/4" Backspacing and 31x10.5 15 Tires, but I tubbed the box. With that spacing they fill the fenders just right. If you're going with the wider fenders you can either go with a wider wheel, or you can go with a 4WD S-10 rear diff which is either 3 or 4" wider, so about 2" per side. I like the deep dish wheel look so that helped my decision, you can decide what you want to do. However, if you do switch diffs, keep note that some of the 4WD Blazers had rear disc brakes. If you go that route, you need to change your master cylinder as well. Just make sure whatever rear brakes you use that the master is matched.

Just an extra note, my body is mounted about 4" off the frame, and I lowered the frame 2" in front with spindles and 2" in back with blocks. I originally had taller blocks in the back but had to put shorter ones in for the right stance and more clearance. My front wheels are 15x8" with 3.5" backspace, and my front tires are I think 225/60R15. That should give you an idea of tire heights and such. The style of these bodies and the differential height of the running boards at the back of the front fenders compared to the bottom of the front grille pan make it hard to get them really low for ride height, and as well because I tubbed my box and used such tall tires, the curve of the fender where it meets the box side limited my rear ride height. It ended up exactly as I want it, but these are things for you to keep in mind.

I hope that helps.

Good info 46gmcpu. I actually really like the ride height of your truck. That's right where I would want the ride height to be on this truck,, but then be able to lay frame when we take it to the shows etc. Just cant make up my mind weather I should go with stock rear fenders and have them welded and patched and straightened a little, or go with the fiberglass 2" wider rear fenders and running board kit. If I can get one of the major chassis builder players on board for a full sponsorship, and SEMA booth placement. Then I will go with a complete aftermarket chassis system, and possibly the corvette motor route etc etc. Nut and bolt complete hotrod resto. I went to SEMA back in 08 and want to go back this year bad. Having a truck in a SEMA booth is amazing!!

46gmcpu, I really like the look of your truck. On Gas Monkey Garage there was a 54 Chevy that he sold to those guys and it looked like it was rusty and weathered, but it was actually painted that way and was actually clear coated etc that way. had Half Fast Hot Rods on the door which is an awesome name. It looked sick and was cool how they made it look old and weathered, but it was a completely restored truck.

Thanks, the stance is the #1 thing I get comments on. I'm hoping to go to SEMA this year as a spectator. I hope you can figure out what direction you want to go!


Thanks, I put a lot of thought into the truck and the overall theme so I'm happy when someone comments that they like the way it looks.

I haven't seen pictures of that one on fast and loud. I don't know if it's just because I have a truck with real patina, but even the best fake patina I can pick out a long way away. I've seen a couple really good ones that have fooled me, but for the most part something just doesn't look right about them to me. I've had enough shiny vehicles now that I wanted something I didn't have to worry about washing, rock chips, and scratches. I'm so glad I did it this way, it's the most fun vehicle I've ever owned.

I dont have pictures on here but check out my 200+ pictures below in my signature.

46gmcpu - Did you really take a picture of the speedo doing 110 mph? Glad I wasn't a passenger.

It's in KPH, most KPH speedometers don't measure in MPH.

I don't suppose it's possible for a passenger to take a picture, is it...? My passenger took it, while I was doing roughly 65 MPH, is that okay?

Didn't mean to get your dander up, just when I saw the picture my first thought was HOLY CRAP! 65 mph is much safer ... I guess ...

I have built many of these trucks 1939-46. My advice to you is to keep the orignal frame stay away from this s10 nonsense. using a s10 frame WILL NOT save you any time or money. I have bought a lot of trucks that have been started with the s10 idea in mind.I usually end up using them for parts. There are a lot of different MustII setups for the stock frame that will fit like they were made for the truck because they are. Chassis engineering makes a rear end mounting kit with leaf springs that will make it sit nice.I have always used a camaro/nova rear axle they are a little wider than the s10 and fit better. If you bag it where are going to put all the tanks/compressor to run it? Chopping these trucks are also an interesting project, to much chop or the wrong style chop makes them look worse not better. I am doing a 1939 right now that i chopped 2" and lenghted the cab 6" I recut it 3 times to get the look right. It depends on skills/tools you have to do one of these trucks.They are a lot different to build than a muscle car or newer car. there is really nothing on one of these that is a bolt on modification. any suspension, motor mounts, rear axle updates will require a welder and good welding skills. They also can be fun, fast and handle like a go cart if done right.

You're right, if you don't know what you're doing it won't save you any money. For me it saved a ton, but the swap isn't for those without the skills to pull it off. That's why there are so many half started ones out there that aren't worth finishing.

Whew..glad I kept my original frame then!!

Dropped a 1973 K5 Blazer 4x4 frame & running gear below the 41 AK Body it's a good fit

41chevy just to throw another wrench in the works go over to killbillett and check out the guy who puts Isuzu frames under 41-46 chevies. Seems frame is flat , narrow enough for early cabs etc. good luck with project. I put nova front clip and rearend under my 49 suburban but think earlier years are narrower.

You're right bourbon, the 41-46 cabs are narrower I don't recall if the fenders are.

Anyone notice he now has it for sale on sleezebay. So much for the father and son project......

Right you are. I guess it wasn't the truck he wanted all along after all.

Interestingly enough it has received 0 bids.