| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,113 Posts1,056,279 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 170 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 170 | My truck has the die cast frame, does the correct gasket come with holes in it for the screws to pass thru? I believe I was sold the wrong one because it covers the holes and there is no way to mount it. I double checked the Steele part # and it matches the application, but there is no way it can work. Also what are you guys using for the cloth tape between metal body parts? Thanks, Scott | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 | Scott,
The new rear window gasket I got from Steele Rubber did not have the holes for the screws nor were the ends vucanized. I cut the gasket to fit the glass, taped the gasket to the glass and then placed the glass/gasket assembly in the cab opening. I made sure the assembly was centered adequately, and then had someone mark the screw hole locations from inside the cab. Once I had the hole locations determined, I used a freshly sharpened gasket hole cutter to make the perforations. The process worked out fairly well.
Paul | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 170 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 170 | My gasket is 1/2" thick and one piece, does that sound similar to yours? The seam is vulcanized on mine, and the OD is exactly the same as the frame. Scott | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 | It sounds like you got a better part, I had to glue my gasket as it was not vulcanized. I would say that the 1/2 thick part and size to the pot metal frame sounds right. I used a paint marker to locate where to punch the holes.
Paul | | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | I'd love to see pictures, from both sides, once you have it installed. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 | I will make an attempt to get some images posted. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 |
Last edited by Paul_WNC; 02/14/2014 1:44 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 170 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 170 | Did you use any sealant? The hole punch worked great! Thanks, Scott | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 1,611 | Scott,
I used some bath and kitchen type sealant that can be cleaned up with water. I CARFULLY injected a small bead around the perimeter, and then wiped most of it away with paper towels/rags. I finished the process by wiping the area with a damp sponge cleaned often with water until all of the sealant residue was removed.
Yeah the gasket punch sure did work for cutting the rubber. I tested drilling the holes, and don't think it would have worked as well. I don't know about you, but I was glad to have the rear window task behind me.
Paul | | |
| |
| |