The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Disk Brakes

After looking at the kits and the cost. And because I am so tempted to do things my own way. Has any one ever tried to put a set of rotors on the stock hub? No fussing with tapered bearings that don't fit exactly. I know I would have to deal with the caliper support and dust covers. But I am not in love with the rotors as part of the hub. So, am I just crazy or..OK I am crazy. But it might be a nice project any way. Comments are welcome. Advice is too. I know you can get the drums off. And the rotors are held in place with the wheel studs. At least they were on my Jeep. Maybe some of the newer model parts would work with out too much trouble. The "offset" will have to be looked at as well as some kind of support bracket for the calipers but maybe some thing out there is workable? What do you think?

There are some kits out there already that use late model rotors over top of the OEM hub.

The 99 and newer Silverados would be a good place to start.

Here's Chevs of the 40s kit, a little on the pricey side.

https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detai...ke_Conversion_19471954_6_Lug_Rotors.html

what truck?

Nice information Whitedog. Just what I was thinking. Now to get it warm enough to spend time in the wrecking yard with my tape measure. Might be fun.

My bad..1952 1/2 ton.

Interesting on the Chev's Of The 40's kit. Looks like it needs a spacer behind the rotor and an offset caliper bracket.

The Chevs of the 40's kit (looks like the same one at CPP) has the rotor behind the stock hub and the spacer attached on top. Rotor/Hub/Spacer. The studs are driven thru the rotor and into the hub. The spacer is attached with screws from the front which pass thru the three original drum rivet holes in the hub and into threaded holes in the rotor.

Steve, I did the disc brake conversion on my '38. I have a '51 axle under the front.
I used the '51 hubs.
Machine the back side of the hubs where the rotor mounts.
The rotors are from '78/80 K10
the calipers are from 78/80 C10
Used longer wheel studs to go thru both the rotor and hub

I fabbed the brackets from 5/8 plate steel. I mocked it up with plywood to get the proper shape.

Wayne- got a picture of your brakes?

For what it's worth the part number for the longer studs is Dorman 610-179. The rotor and caliper info that Wayne67vert posted is consistent with what's used in the CPP kit.

driver side

passenger side

Wayne: That looks like what I had in mind. Thanks for the parts list. Now I can go looking.

Quick look at RockAuto gives approximate cost at about 150 for 2 rotors and 2 calipers. Add new brake lines, and hardware plus some metal, Maybe 300 all together...might work. Thanks!

You will also need a master cylinder, residual pressure valves, flexible hoses and a distribution block.

my set up

That is purty!