Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,010 Posts1,055,305 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | Hey guys, I'm tired of it sounding like I'm riding in the inside of a drum and thought I'd like to try adding some insulation to the doors. I've got some new leftover Owens-Corning house insulation on a roll and thought about packing some inside my doors. Since it's fiberglass it won't absorb moisture and wouldn't pack down or rot. Any reason not to use it? Thanks.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | If you want inexpensive, get yourself some foil backed 1/2" thick closed cell foam ins board. I think a 4x8 sheet runs all of 8 bucks. enough for both doors.
A roll of peel and seal would finish it off nicely.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | Don't use the fiberglass insulation. It would work but isn't the best for that. Plus if it gets wet then it needs to be dried out. I use the bubble-wrap style hot water heater insulation (the foil-sided bubble wrap). I put a 2'x50' roll in my truck, it's at least double layered everywhere. It's quiet and stays cool as well. We've always used clear silicone to glue it down, and it works well. My doors close nice and solid and when you knock on them you get a solid "thud". | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | I did the same as 46 in my GMC cab. WAY quiet... but the foam board went in my GMT just as easy and works just as good for 1/10th the price...
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 275 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 275 | When I built my '56, I used Peel 'n Seal inside the doors, floor boards, firewall, etc.--insulating only the floor and fire wall--not the doors. The doors sounded solid immediately. No more "inside a drum" sound and we've been very happy with the result for over 10 years now. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 Moderator | | Moderator Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,215 | Hey spot, nothing wrong with using that stuff. I've used it in my last 3 work vans, over 25 years in total. It's never gotten wet, helps with sound absorption as well. Other products could work well too, but you have this as leftovers. Go for it. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,644 | Thanks everyone for all your suggestions, but 1953 panel gave me the answer I was looking for. I realize there are much better products to use when insulating our cabs and doors, but I had this Owens Corning fiberglass insulation left over and wanted to put it to good use if it could be used. Since 1953 panel has used it with success I feel comfortable in stuffing my doors with it. Thanks again everyone!!
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod | | |
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