The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1958 chevy 1/2 ton truck. Rear end troubles and questions please help!!!

Ill start from scratch here guys.
I have a 1958 chevy 1/2 ton truck.
Motor is a 350 with some decent power.
Transmission has a mild stall and shift kit (3 speed auto)
Rear end ( I was told was factory)

Truck is fresh to me.
When driving up to normal speed and climbing to highway speed. I have a whine coming from the rearend. It gets louder with faster speed but when I let off fuel noise goes away completely. Vibration is very minimal.

Tonight I pulled the cover off the rear end.
It has 10 bolt cover and has 6 bolt lugs.
Upon opening this cover I noticed it does look like the housing was ground to fit the ring gear. Looks like it rubbed at one point in time. But I could be wrong and the ring gear spins very close to the housing.

There was not a over abundance of shavings/flakes but some flakes were present.

When turning the tire and listening I can hear a noise which sounds like change in the dryer. Which gets me thinking pinion bearings?????

There is no slop up and down, left or right with the carrier. And rear tires have minimal to no slop in and out.
What is your guy's input???

Sounds like a bearing is coming apart. Could be any of the bearings-pinion, carrier or axle bearings. There is trash in the rearend and it will only get worse. Time to dig in and find the problem. If you are not up to it, find a good shop.
Let us know how it goes.
Mark

pinion bearing is shot, stop driving it until you get it fixed or you'll be trashing gears

Bill

I plan on fixing this before anymore driving. I found some numbers on the ring gear. 1813637 10-39 GM 81
Whats your input do you think the is the original internals to this truck? It really looks like the housing was ground out a bit at one time to fit this ring gear.
Im defiantly thinking my problem lies with a bearing. Just curious on these numbers on ring gear and if they match up to a original rear.

10-39 = 3.90:1, standard 1/2T ratio, the grinding is the usual factory cleanup of the rough casting

Bill

Perfect thank you very much red

So after talking with a mechanic (he did all my work on my 73 duster tranny and did a great job) He figures I am wasting my time with this factory rear. I can find a ford 9" (width permitting) and he will help me with it. So what I'm wondering. In all logical sense should I just switch complete rears and be done with it?

what are your intentions for the truck? why does he think that rear is a waste? parts are available, it's easily repairable, you could even get 3.38 gears for it if you want better highway speeds, and it's strong enough to wheel stand the truck with a built big block

Bill

I basically want to cruise around town and when I feel to lay the hammer down I can. Take it out to the track once in awhile.

Im running around 450 horse. He is a main guy in the drag racing scene around here and runs 3 fully mod'ed car and 3 junior drags. So I take for granted he knows his stuff but i'm always open to look at other idea's. He says I should change because: I have the ability and the help to do so. Change it for more modern parts and more options of parts. And I would love to have posi.
My tranny is alsdo built strong with a 3500 stall and shift kit and stronger bands...etc
What do you think?

entirely up to you, I've never seen a strength problem with the stock rear unless they're not maintained

Bill

You can replace all the bearings in that rear for small money. Also all the parts are available at your FLAPS. But if you want to dump a lot more $$ and go with the 9" you would be spending a lot more money to accomplish the same thing.

Keep the rear end you have. Repair it and drive it.

Hey guys I have update on my rear end swap. Decided to go with a 9"

9" Housing/Axle Package
- New Moser Axles, Axle Bearings, Wheel Studs,& Retainers
- 31 Spline, Choice of Bolt Pattern, 1/2" Studs

- New 31 Spline Trac-Lock Posi with nodular iron and billet case.
- New Motive Performance Gears (Choice of Ratio)
- New Timken USA Bearings
Switching to disc brakes, going with a wilwood set.

One problem I have came to is the spring perch's. I measured over and over on the factory rear. I keep coming up with 8 degree one side and 8.5 degree's on the other. Any of you guys know factory degree or what my spring perch angle should be?

Nevermind. Help not needed. Discovered this is the incorrect group for me and my questions.