Speed,if you have a tractor /ag-supply store handy,they should have everything in-house,for your p.t.o. All the shafts that I've seen are square rod,(about 2").. You may be able to find a shaft that length,or maybe a little longer,and cut to length. Don't forget to "safety-wire" the "U" joints. They will slide off the shaft(s),if you don't. I've used baling wire on the old '72 C-30 tow truck,and the '69 C-65 roll-back,and had no problems. I had a 245 flathead Studebaker engine,('48), go "south" on me,about 5-years ago. P.O. knew the exhaust manifold was cracked,(2"hole),and didn't replace it. It RAN that previous November,and it ran well. I bought the 2-tonner that following February,and tried to start it. The engine was froze,due to condensation,from the hole in the manifold. I pulled the head,and the only affected piston was #5. I used ATF,Marvel,Diesel,brake fluid,and P.B. blaster,and tried breaking that engine "free" for 5-years!! I used a pry-bar,on the flywheel,as well as dis-connecting the drive-shaft,from the diff.I'd use the driveshaft as a huge breaker-bar,but the clutch would slip,before the engine would turn. I used a 2X4,and a 5 lb. mallet,to no avail. I never heard of Kroil,at the time,but that's what I'd recommend. We even tried to "pop" the clutch,at 15-20 m.p.h.,and that piston wouldn't budge. Sold the engine for scrap. Hope you have WAY better luck with yours!
Last edited by wetwilly5757; 08/17/2013 11:38 PM.
