Spanky;
That's what I thought I remembered reading-thanks for confirming. Apparently it's a babbit-pounder;the oil pressure gauge only goes to 30 pounds. If I end up having to go into the engine for anything more than superficial work I'll probably retro it to a full pressure bottom end and inserts,and do the full flow oil filter conversion. I'm still kinda hoping to jigger the rings free and see if it'll actually run,though.
Willy;
It occurred to me that a mud dauber sealed the dipstick hole,but whatever's in there feels a little more "solid" than that. The rst of the engine appears to be properly sealed up,but I suspect you're right about the clutch etc.
My tentative plan for freeing the engine is to dose the cylinders heavily with ATF,let it soak for a few days,chain the bumper of my BroncWorth to the front bumper of the truck and rock it back and forth in gear until it starts to turn. Then I'll hook up my battery and crank it with the plugs out until I'm sure there's no tight spots or metal/metal interference. Then I'll put new plugs in it,file and adjust the points,give it fresh gas,pressure feed the carb with about 3# of air and make sure the float works. (Might take the carb off to see if it has crud in it that needs to be removed.) Of course,this is all subject to change.
I began pricing a drive shaft for the PTO;the first estimate is just under $500.00!!! There's one more shop in town that I want to check,see what the parts I need would cost,I guess I can build one easily enough. Is there a "typical" shaft diameter for these PTO pumps and drives? Sounds like a 2 piece shaft with a slip yoke and carrier bearing is pretty much mandatory for a 94" total length. I do have some odds-n-ends of PTO drive parts,so I'll dig 'em out and see what will work for this thing.
Speed
Last edited by speed 6351; 08/17/2013 9:18 PM.
