In a 1950 the ONLY gauge you have to do anything with is the gas gauge. The oil pressure and temp gauges are mechanical so they don't care what engine they're hooked to although you would probably want to swap out the 15# oil pressure gauge for a 60# one. You can drill and tap the left rear coolant runner for a temp sender fitting to keep the 1950 sender stock or send it off to Carter for a longer capillary tube to reach the factory sender hole in the V8 intake and/or head. Amps are amps, 6v or 12v so the factory gauge is fine. A universal tank sender for the fuel gauge can be used, 30-90 ohms IIRC but check on this. A Runtz resistor on the voltage side of the gas gauge and every gauge will work like it's 1950 again. If your transmission has a mechanical speedometer gear then the cable is a direct bolt up. If electonic someone else will have to jump in with advice. I test drive one with a gps stuck to the windshield and compare the speedo reading with the gps and figure the percentage it's off and then pick a set of drive/driven gears that will correct it. If you are going to have a lot of accessories I suggest you run a wire from the ACC terminal on the ignition switch to an auxillary fuse box because it gets crowded with just one terminal to hook to. If you're really loading it with power everything, especially an electric fan, then run a wire from the switch to a relay that has a 12g or 10g wire from the battery through the relay to the fuse block. I like one with working factory gauges over ones with round ones hung everywhere and it's so easy to do.
