I have taken the plunge and commenced the rewiring process on my '66, K-10. I decided to do so because the battery wasn't holding a charge even though the batter and alternator tested out and the entire engine wiring harness from the firewall to the headlights had been replaced previously. I also check all grounds at the voltage regulator, frame-to-body, engine-to-frame, etc. I replace the horn relay, voltage regulator, points, plug wires, coil, condenser and still couldn't isolate the problem.
Long story short, the entire interior is out to make way for new floor pans, kick panels, inner rocker panels, correct tranny hump (the previous owner did a cobbled up job of replacing the tranny hump when swapping a manual for an 400 turbo), cab insulation and sound deadening. I also thought it would be a good time to install the factory correct automatic steering column and correct the power steering gear box alignment with a REZ Engineering retro kit (again the previous owner did a cobbled up job of installing the power steering gear box that created a radical angle at the rag joint).
I then decided to do a little touch up in the engine compartment, only to discover the inner fenders needed some rust repair in the usual places. I now have the entire front clip off the truck in preparation for new inner fenders and a fresh coat of paint in the engine compartment. After all of this is put back properly, I will complete installation of the American Autowire wiring harness that set this whole chain of events into motion.
I too was overwhelmed by the spaghetti mess I saw after laying out the new harness on my bench, however I decided to take the advice of many others that have come before me and "take it one connection at a time". The wiring seems insignificant considering all of the other elements I have undertaken as a result of a battery that wouldn't hold a charge. The funny thing is I don't regret a bit of my decision to do it right while I have my '66, K-10 in my garage.
Best of luck with your wiring challenges.
