Hey guys...

Just an update and a few comments to address above...

My brakes are working great. After switching the lines so the front brake lines go to the rear reservoir and the rear brake lines go to the front reservoir, I was able to bleed both front and back brakes.

I also had to adjust all four brakes. Unfortunately, the replacement drums for the front did not have punch-outs to adjust the brakes. I had to drill a 1/2" hole in each backing plate and use a plug to fill the hole. Trust me, you want to do this to keep the brake fluid from dripping in when bleeding. It is hard to bleed the front brakes without dripping.

Regarding using a 'long nut'. This is also called a connecting nut. I did not know the name of it at the time I wrote the original post. In either case, it was a temporary fix until I had the bolt end welded on by a professional.

Regarding needing to adjust the brake push rod. I noticed the original master had a larger section where it went through the firewall, vs. the dual, which had a shorter one. I am not sure, but I think the longer one is for manual brakes and the shorter one is for a power booster.

Regarding the proportioning valve or distribution block... since we are talking about drum brakes in the front and the back, they are not needed, but could be used if desired.

Thanks again guys for all your help.


...Russ


1960 Chevy Apache (C10)
1965 Chevy C30 Dump Truck
1966 Chevy C30 Tow Truck