Other issue: Voltage to parking light "chassis". I assume you mean parking light socket housing. It would be almost impossible to get voltage to the NEW parking light socket housing. You need to take off the entire park light assembly and see if there is continuity (ohm tester) from the socket housing to light bulb terminals inside the housing. If it is a cheap Chinese unit, ANYTHING is possible. The sockets usually have two insulated leads/or a connector coming out the back thru the bulb terminal insulator. These leads would have to touch the side of the socket? It is totally unbelievable that both do this "chassis" hot thing. Are you sure? It sounds like you found this with bulbs removed, so the bulbs can't be contributing to the problem. Were you just touching the socket (chassis) metal with test light and then to bumper/ground? If this were happening it would blow up the whole truck! or a least a fuse because the housing (chassis) has 12v and is touching the grille or whatever metal it is mounted to, ON BOTH LIGHTS???? I think you need to check that again and tell us it ain't so. The rear lights come on in park mode also and if they have a ground problem it can cause the fronts to act goofy. Are the rears coming on? Is the column connector wired correctly. That feeds the turn sigs.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn