| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (David Bush, kades51, BC59, MikeE, Bucker, MickeyP, Rexville48, dt235sd),
97
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,049 Posts1,055,702 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 775 | I am working on my 46 truck. My paint guy explained it to me this way - Acrylic Enamel is like asphalt and urethane is like cement harder and more durable. Both enamel and urethane are available with catylist. Mine body color is a single stage urethane catylist product. What I discovered is the urethane is much harder to apply without runs. You have apply lighter coats and wait a few minutes between them. I sprayed my engine with acrylic enamel. It was so much eaiser. The best product now is the epoxy primer. You can sandblast or strip the metal then epoxy primer the metal then do the body work. This is great for those of us doing this in your spare time. To get the urethane to really shine and look like glass you have to wet sand and buff it . It looks great when you do. | | |
|
|
| |
