.... we can't all always meet best practice protocols but we still want to approach that standard with the tools and techniques available to us.
I fall squarely in that demographic which is why I called Barry at SPI and spoke several times with him about the specific question.... What IS the recommended way to neutralize and remove a rust removal product?
Barry told me the problem is only a problem if the proper neutralizing isn't done properly AND that it's still a big gamble cause you can easily miss some small spot which WILL come back and bite you. He stressed the need to be very anal about this step. The key again was to make sure I was removing the product while it is wet and 'active' and that simply hosing it off was not going to cut it.
My conversation was regarding a phosphoric acid based product, I don't know what Picklex is formulated from so I don't want to infer its the same process, simply that there are 'safe but only under stringent conditions' alternatives to those of us "less fortunate" when it comes to tools or equipment.
I see it as being stuck between a rock and a hard place. Do we forgo using the best practice of epoxy primer because we couldn't afford to blast? There are plenty of primers that will work with the rust converters but they aren't epoxy.
I chose to bite the bullet and spend the extra time needed to convert and neutralize since I have way more of that than extra money. BUT, I only used it in places I couldn't easily access with the DA, Grinder or my hands.
I hope this doesn't wind up sounding like a blanket approval of rust products because it isn't intended to. It's intended to address the question of 'proper neutralizing' and maybe the reasons we choose to use what we use.
And hopefully move the discussion from whether or not they are safe (we all acknowledge they are NOT) to CAN they be safe and how do we approach that?
Thanks for adding that bit. This is one of the few threads I have seen on this topic that shows the OP has actually done research, and pros and cons both have been discussed. I think part of the issue that we all face, human nature lends that we are looking for the easy way out. Add to that, unfortunately many times the conversion coatings are billed as the best thing since sliced bread, with little if any discussion of the
proper methods of neutralizing, or the need to be anal in doing so, as Barry put it. Lacking this important info, one may indeed run into problems. Considering the high cost of paint products, the discussion of all aspects (in greater detail) are vital for anyone to make an informed decision and to insure success.
