...just my experience. Years ago I didn't even know what a residual valve was!
I put my M/C under the floor of my 37 and I'm running disc front and drum back. I've had this truck on the road for about 11 years now and no problems what so ever.
Now,2011, I have a panel with "currently" drum front and back.
I do have the master cylinder and the booster under the floor on this panel same as the 37. I like a clean firewall.
Anticipating disc on front somewhere in the future I did decide to put a 10lb residual valve on the rear. When I ordered I actually went ahead and got two of them not knowing then exactly how I'd do things.
Well, the first valve I put on I could not get to stop leaking around the threads. So, I changed it and put the other one on. Still could not get it to stop leaking although it was only a drip or two a day. Yes, I even changed the line and I tried tighten, loosen, tighten, used weatherhead/eaton fittngs and I know I had the right threaded fittings. In the end I just took it off and put a union in the line. It'd help if we could get a residual valve that the brake lines would screw straight into on both sides without having to use a "reducer". So, "my" experience hasn't been good....but the panel stops just fine. If it was to be a hot rod I'd resolve the valve leaking problem... and probably will on a cold winter shop day.
I do like the idea of having that 10 lb valve to help overcome the rear spring tension but is it really necessary. You be the judge.
...as for brake adjustments you can put automatic adjusters on your truck now sweat.
Last edited by Achipmunk; 06/17/2011 3:12 AM. Reason: clarification
