It might not help either Ron. As you can tell, I'm not a big fan of oil additives. About the only additive that I would consider using is one containing ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate) and even then it might not be needed. Contrary to the myth that it has been removed altogether, previously the Phosphorus levels in oil were in the range of 1400-1500 ppm the new regulations limit the zinc to below 800 ppm, a reduction of about 50%.
If you read the Service manuals and Operating manuals of these engines S.A.E. 20W or 20 are the heaviest oils that are recommended. And for cold weather 10W or 5W oils depending on the temp.
If I were running straight weight oil I would not use anything heavier than these. Straight weight lubricating oils are getting hard to find and if you choose to go with a multigrade, 5W20 motor oil would be ideal choice but it was really only produced to increase the CAFÉ reported to the Feds.
Here’s the but, that grade is now also getting hard to find, I’ve seen a few oil companies still sells it for those that demand it, even though most don’t recommend it. Now days 99% of the cars use 5W30 so 99% of the shelves in automotive sections of the big box stores are stocked with 5W30.
Can you use 5W30 in your 216/235 engines? Of course you can, the fuel mileage might suffer by a tenth of a mile per gallon over the S.A.E. 20 if you could accurately control the test, but I doubt any one of us could detect the difference in normal driving.
Detergent? Yep, great discovery keeps the engines clean and keeps the crud in suspension till you drain the oil out. Also you don’t take the chance of getting one big slug of crap being sucked up from the bottom of the pan.
Any additives that are needed to improve oil performance are already included in todays name brand motor oils. And I am a big supporter of the synthetics if the engine isn’t an oil burner. There is just to much information that point to the reduction in wear and friction in an engine using synthetic motor oil.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
