I start out with no shims, and snug the bearing caps one at a time to be sure the crankshaft can be locked, or at least made hard to turn by tightening the bolts. Add shims until the crank turns freely, then use the Plastigage to do a final check. Use one piece of Green PG at the top of the crankshaft journal, torque the cap, and remove it without turning the crankshaft. Yes, the bearing and crank needs to be dry. I like to shoot for a bearing clearance of .0015", with .0025" as an absolute maximum. Check and adjust the bearings one at a time. The insert-type bearings don't wear as quickly as the Babbit types do, but getting the clearance down to minimum will make for a longer-lasting engine.
Jerry

"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!