Did you use the instructions that came with the offy intake, regarding the idle bleed screw adjustment? The instructions that came with mine were wrong. They suggested using half the normal setting.
What I found helpful, was to set both carbs up before placing on the manifold to the factory settings. The shop manual will tell you, its something like one and a half turns out from seating, and there is also a number of turns from closed throttle for the throttle screws.
When I first set mine up, it ran, but was super duper lean. I consulted my beloved California Bill's Speed guide, and found the answer to my lean problem.
I assume your engine has been over-bored? If it has, you should get fine results with the B's. I run two carbs on my 216, its great, and looks cool.
After checking the above, I would start by static timing, getting the ball in place on #1 firing, and putting your multi meter across the points in the dizzy. With the octane selector at zero, loosen the dizzy up and lock it just where you loose continuity across the points. ( By turning the dizzy)
If you are fancy and time with a light, and the engine running, remember to disconnect the dizzy vacuum advance, and plug it while you use your light. I don't use a light because I am too lazy to disconnect the dizzy line and plug it, too lazy to go to the store to buy one, and I'm cheap.
Once you start road testing, you might find that you can't get enough advance by adjusting the dizzy using the octane selector. If thats the case, you can start by retiming the engine, with the octane selector set somewhere in the retard zone. In the end, it doesn't matter where the selector ends up, as long as the engine is happy, and there isn't coke bottle noise coming from it when you stomp on it.
If you are planning on using a choke, you will want to use both. You also will want to make sure the carbs are matched, and both floats are set exactly the same, no excessive play in the throttle shafts, when you sync don't have any linkage attached, blah, blah, blah.
