Success! Yesterday morning I looked things over closely to ensure each stud was RH threaded, they are. Still after several days now of squirting PB Blaster before and after work my 1" Drive breaker bar with 4' cheater pipe would not move any of them. The answer was simply 60 seconds of the little torch with can of MAP gas (not propane). What a difference a little heat makes. They were hot but not red hot. After 60 seconds of heat I gave a squirt of the PB Blaster and then immediately gave slow steady two hand pressure with the cheater bar. Each one came loose nicely!

Additional tricks I was told by some farming freinds in their shops if the above didn't work immediately were to heat, spray with the PB and let sit overnight. Said the heat help sucks the fluid in. Then next day heat again and put the bar or impact on it. Another is to take an oversized deep impact socket that just clears the nut and touches the wheel. Give a few whacks with a 5 lb. mallet to break the seize between back of the nut face and the wheel surface.

I now have all my drums off and verified my left rear brake cylinders were the only fuctional brakes on the rig. Yikes!! Anyone know if brake parts are readily available still? I'll check with NAPA Friday.


Conway68
1963 Chevrolet L60 (LCF) grain truck
350 4SP on 3SP Brownie