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8 members (J Lucas, greenie-reddy, homer52, kades51, 55shaker, Gray_Ghost, 2 invisible),
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Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,260 Posts1,058,321 Members48,485 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 159 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 159 | Given my lack of knowlege here, that sort of makes sense. Is there a way to test the set-up OUT of the truck? In otherwords, I have the gauge cluster and the sending units sitting on my work bench. I have a battery charger that I am hooking up like this:
I put the "-" clip from the battery charger to the sending unit mounting flange. I connect the "+" clip from the battery charger to the "+" on the gauge. I run a jumper wire from the sending unit to the "sender" on the gauge.
This has resulted in the gauge always going to empty. When I raise the float arm (even with the proper 0-30 ohm sender) the needle raises VERY slightly.
Am I missing a wire connection somewhere? Do the sender and gauge have to be installed in order to work? I wondered about the resistance of a longer wire from the sender to the gauge?
They say ignorance is bliss but this gauge thing is anything but blissful!
CK
It is neither wealth nor splendor, but tranquility in occupation which brings happiness. - Thomas Jefferson
CK
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