Here is a picture of the linkage supplied with new intakes that should show you how it connects to the carbs:
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w186/curt160/engine/?action=view¤t=Picture015.jpgHaving never being able to adjust that to my satisfaction I made a few of these:
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2371836880023244788scDYVII believe the “magic ingredient” in making a multi carb setup work well is a rod that is parallel to the crankshaft which pivots along its own axis and actuates the carbs thru arms and ball joints. Tom Langdon accomplishes this by means of Heim joints and angled holders and I did it by making the rod holder integral to the spacer but the method I used cost more than I would want to pay and is not the most cost effective solution. Many vintage intakes have a solid linkage provision that can be used for a guideline and to do it again I would:
1. Study the solid linkage “wings” and arms in this thread and sketch the pieces (especially the Edelbrock and old Fenton ones):
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200740&showall=12. Fabricate wings and weld to your intake as shown in examples.
3. Drill rod holes in ears after mocking up carbs and determining pivot points.
4. Carbs should be actuated from directly underneath at mid point for optimum reduction in throttle shaft wear.
Linkage arms are available at vintage speed (3 required):
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000106a~Z5Z5Z599351~P6.75~~~~S2KH0JICI614259213914a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000106a
Search for a local “throttle ball joint” distributor. Paulin in Canada has them or here is a US example (5 required):
http://www.aetnascrew.com/bjoint3.htmOnce set up a solid linkage system won’t “wander away” and very fine adjustment becomes possible.